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Thread: Looking for opinions and advice for new sugar shack

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Sanford
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    Default Looking for opinions and advice for new sugar shack

    I’ve attached a rough rough draft of the sugar shack I’d like to build. It is 16’ x 16’ with a 4’ x 16’ wood storage on the side. 6:12 roof slope. Housing a 2’x4’ evaporator. The cupola footprint is represented by the dashed line (not shown on the front view though). I’m planning on pouring a slab for the floor in the main sugar house only.

    F887EAF2-F6FA-4100-8302-26F903172DFA.jpg

    My questions are:

    What’s the general opinion on floor drain type (trench vs circular) and placement or should I not bother with a floor drain?
    What are your comments/suggestions on spacing and placement of things?
    Other comments/suggestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
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    Rutland, Vermont
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    Quote Originally Posted by SanfordSyrup View Post
    I’ve attached a rough rough draft of the sugar shack I’d like to build. It is 16’ x 16’ with a 4’ x 16’ wood storage on the side. 6:12 roof slope. Housing a 2’x4’ evaporator. The cupola footprint is represented by the dashed line (not shown on the front view though). I’m planning on pouring a slab for the floor in the main sugar house only.

    Attachment 21135

    My questions are:

    What’s the general opinion on floor drain type (trench vs circular) and placement or should I not bother with a floor drain?
    What are your comments/suggestions on spacing and placement of things?
    Other comments/suggestions?
    We didn't put drains in when we built ours 4 years ago. Would have been really nice. i would go with the trench ones. We get by with a good mop. We also put our evaporator on the center line of the building and i think if we had to do it again it would be offset. It gives more working space to one side for canning and such. 6ft walls? 8ft walls?
    CDL 2.5*8 Venturi with all the bells
    Leader Clear 5 bank filter press
    Memprotec 350H RO
    600ish taps and looking for more.

  3. #3
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    Jan 2016
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    Sanford
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    Default

    I was thinking 8’ walls.
    So if you offset the evaporator how well does the cupola work for ventilation? Will it be an issue with steam rising up, hitting the inside of the roof, and then rolling up toward the opening causing condensation? Or does it not really matter the position of the pan relative to the cupola opening?

  4. #4
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    Jan 2017
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    Williston, VT
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    I think you should move the stack closer (and whole arch) to the end wall to allow for a future arch upgrade. Also assuming wood fire you'll need lots of room at the fire end. I agree with other's comments about offset and floor drain.
    Ken & Sherry
    Williston, VT
    16x34 Sugarhouse
    1,500 taps on high vacuum, Electric Releaser & CDL Sap Lifter
    Wood-Fired Leader 30"x10' Vortex Arch & Max Raised Flue with Rev Syrup Pan & CDL1200 RO
    https://www.facebook.com/pumpkinhillmaple/

  5. #5
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    Jan 2016
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    Sanford
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    Thanks, I think I have it 4’ from the back wall. How close do other people have their stack and evaporator to the walls? Or what would you recommend as a good distance? I’m assuming there is no need to walk around behind the evaporator.

  6. #6
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    Oneida NY
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    Another question regarding what might be in your future in 5 or 10 years relating to tap count and evaporator size? If a 2x4 or 2x6 will be all you see, that 16x16 should be good.
    Back in 2003 when I built my 16x24 for a 2x6 wood fired I thought it was a little over kill, now with a 3x8, a 5' wide wood rack that is carried by my tractor on forks, a small RO room, a filter press, a water jacketed bottler, a 2x6 finisher, some solar equipment, a sink, a tankless water heater, some shelves for display and 2 small freezers it is little no longer a little overkill. I planned several times to add an addition, but life got in the way. I wish I had built it 20x30 or even 24x36.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  7. #7
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    Mar 2018
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    Two Harbors, Minnesota
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    Default

    I built a 12'x20' with an 8'x12' root cellar under it. The root keeps the sap nice and cool no matter the temp outside. I put fresh water tanks down there to hold the sap in. I use a battery and a diaphragm pump to pump into my pans. I also have a big window one one long wall and a sliding glass door for the other side in case it gets too hot.
    I run two evaporators side by side. One's a 2x4 and the other is a 2x6. Both made from fuel oil drums. They're double insulated so walking between them isn't bad at all.
    I left the eaves open for better circulation when evaporating. The picture when cooking was taken last season before I finished the shack. The sugar shack picture was taken in the summer when it was almost finished. It'll be nice making syrup this year where it's warm.

    Sugarshack complete.jpg
    Two evaporators.jpg
    Last edited by billschi; 03-08-2020 at 09:39 PM.
    2016- 32 taps, 3 1/2 gallons
    2017- 150 taps, 13 gallons after building an evaporator
    2018- goal is 240+ taps. 20+ gallons.
    2018 Reality- 235 taps, 5 gallons of syrup. Average 50 birch taps and 3 gallons of syrup.
    2019- 180 maple taps, 20 gallons of finished syrup.
    ~ 160 birch taps, 13 finished gallons of syrup.

    Latitude 47.278150

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  8. #8
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    Jan 2017
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    Williston, VT
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    Quote Originally Posted by SanfordSyrup View Post
    Thanks, I think I have it 4’ from the back wall. How close do other people have their stack and evaporator to the walls? Or what would you recommend as a good distance? I’m assuming there is no need to walk around behind the evaporator.
    It would depend upon the type of protection on the wall. And, it's controlled by your rafter spacing unless you plan ahead and adjust them during framing. Typical rafter spacing is 24 in and it makes sense to locate the stack in center between two. So that makes for about 3 ft from outside of outer wall for a default reasonable distance, or something close depending on actual spacing and where your end rafter sits on the wall. Then you protect adjacent materials.
    Ken & Sherry
    Williston, VT
    16x34 Sugarhouse
    1,500 taps on high vacuum, Electric Releaser & CDL Sap Lifter
    Wood-Fired Leader 30"x10' Vortex Arch & Max Raised Flue with Rev Syrup Pan & CDL1200 RO
    https://www.facebook.com/pumpkinhillmaple/

  9. #9
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    Dec 2009
    Location
    Saratoga County, NY
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    Default

    if you keep the evaporator in the center put trench floor drains on either side. I would also pour concrete in the entire sugar house. go big than you think you need, much easier then adding on later.

  10. #10
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    Jan 2017
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    Williston, VT
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    Quote Originally Posted by ADK-Dan View Post
    if you keep the evaporator in the center put trench floor drains on either side. I would also pour concrete in the entire sugar house. go big than you think you need, much easier then adding on later.
    I agree with multiple floor drains but i like the center offset concept. Concrete floor makes total sense too. Then you can use prefab plastic floor trench sections. I bought some 3ft lengths for about $60 each a couple of years ago. Then pitch concrete slightly towards the trench.

    Don't do smooth trowel finish like i did on my slab. It's too slippery when cold and walking on with snowy boots. Do light broom finish after smooth trowel.
    Ken & Sherry
    Williston, VT
    16x34 Sugarhouse
    1,500 taps on high vacuum, Electric Releaser & CDL Sap Lifter
    Wood-Fired Leader 30"x10' Vortex Arch & Max Raised Flue with Rev Syrup Pan & CDL1200 RO
    https://www.facebook.com/pumpkinhillmaple/

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