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Thread: help with new evaporator set up

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Mount Vernon, Maine
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    Default help with new evaporator set up

    Greetings. I jumped from one of Bill Mason's 2 x 4 flat pans to a 2 x 5 with raised flues. I'm psyched about the new rig, but have a question. I had to brick the arch and I believe I did a good job. But when the fire is really going there is a massive boil at the top of the ramp. But the rest of the pan -- the back half -- is rather quiet. Should I raise the insulation higher? Why is there an eruption at the top of ramp, but not so much beyond that? Thanks for any help!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
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    11,544

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    It will boil hardest at the top of the ramp. How much space did you leave between the bricks and the bottom of the flues? What size stack?
    On my 3x8 raised flue I have 1/2" between the brick and the bottom of the flues, that forces the extreme heat into the flues. When boiling at first the top of the ramp will boil hardest, but if you fire it right the rest will boil hard too, just not quite as hard as the top of the ramp.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Mount Vernon, Maine
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    Thanks Dave.

    The stack is high -- maybe 6 feet inside the sap house and another 8 outside. I'd say I left maybe 1" between the bricks and the pan -- so maybe I'll tighten that. I'm using that insulated pellets (big bag -- can't recall the name), so I'll add some more.

    Also, the thermometer on the front pan -- the draw off pan -- never gets near 219. I guess that's because it's in that little pocket -- by the draw-off valve. Any thoughts on how high I should take that before drawing off? Is this common?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    River Falls, WI
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    831

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    Quote Originally Posted by Danthemapleman View Post
    Thanks Dave.

    The stack is high -- maybe 6 feet inside the sap house and another 8 outside. I'd say I left maybe 1" between the bricks and the pan -- so maybe I'll tighten that. I'm using that insulated pellets (big bag -- can't recall the name), so I'll add some more.

    Also, the thermometer on the front pan -- the draw off pan -- never gets near 219. I guess that's because it's in that little pocket -- by the draw-off valve. Any thoughts on how high I should take that before drawing off? Is this common?
    My gauge usually doesn't get that high either. I take off at 31 degrees Baume and my thermometer usually reads around 216. I just note where it is the first time I draw off for the day and start paying attention to the hydrometer when it approaches that number for future draws.
    -Ryan


    Went off the deep end. Might be in over my head...

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
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    If you are using vermiculite pop corn, it can get sucked up the stack with a good draft, you want brick over the vermiculite. That's what I have, my arch is 9 or 10" tall, I filled it so a flat layer of bricks just left a 1/2" space.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Washington County, VT
    Posts
    195

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    I have two suggestions. Create some "friction"under the flues. It will get the heat to jump around a bit rather than fly up the stack. As far as getting a hard boil up front, it is important to load your firewood right up under that part of the pan. I always keep a milk crate full of short wood to lay horizontal across the front.
    173 on 3/16 natural vac for 2023
    36 buckets
    2 x 5 Smoky Lake Hybrid pan on a custom arch
    RB25 from RO Bucket
    12x24 salvaged sugarhouse built by wife's grandpa
    1965 Massey Ferguson 165 tractor to haul sap.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Dresden, ME
    Posts
    163

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    I bricked to within a 1/2 inch of the flues for their whole length. The arch is all brick, no vermiculite or other filler. Once that all gets hot, you have that thermal mass to help maintain the firebox temps.
    2010 - barrel stove & a steam table pan. 10 - 12 trees
    2011 - same deal as the year before. My son is now hooked along with me.
    2012 - Took over the garden shed and set up a Mason 2x3. Hoping to tap 30 - 50 trees. Ended up with 100 taps out.
    Finished the season with 16 gallons made
    2013- - Purchased a Smokey Lake 2 x 3 Hybrid pan. WOW, what a difference!!

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