Any one know of any of the tubing tool companies that make a 3/16 tubing tool with a flare attachment for flaring the end of the tubing prior to inserting the fitting?
3/16 tubing tool with flare attachment
Any one know of any of the tubing tool companies that make a 3/16 tubing tool with a flare attachment for flaring the end of the tubing prior to inserting the fitting?
I was thinking about getting one made, but it would be separate. I had that done for my mainline tool, a friend made 2 "torpedos" to flare the tubing on up to 2", now the other end of the spectrum, for 3/16.
At this time we just start one side onto a fitting by hand then do our best to align the opposite side. it's not very quick.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
I'd like an expanding tool like the one I use for Uponor Pex tubing. Mine is manual, but Milwaukee makes a cordless version. It's just not small enough for 3/16 tubing. I do use needle nose pliers to expand the ends. I did find a pair that would open when squeezed, but I forgot where I saw them. Medical uses, I think.
Gary / Zena Crossroads / 42˚ 00' 24" N / Hobby in Early '70s, Addiction since 2014
175+ taps on 3/16 (60 of which are on two Lunchbox Vac/Releasers)
12x34 timber framed sap house w/attached 10x34 shed roof for storage
2 x 6 Smoky Lake hybrid pan on Corsair arch with AUF/steam hood/preheater/concentric exhaust
7.0 KW Sun Power PV System, Smokey Lake Filter Press/Steam Bottler, Modified NGMP RO - 2 4x40 posts 200 gph
tool
I bought mine at Bascoms but have seen them around other shops. Mine is for 5/16 but I use it for 3/16 by cutting some 5/16 and wrapping around the 3/16 or gluing temporally to the grips. Pretty sure they have them for 3/16 as well.
44 27'08/71 27'56
300 totalish taps 250 on tube and bosworth sap sucker
50 bucket and bags about 40-50 gallons a season
on a 2 by 7 home made evaporator and sugar shack
1st gen circa 1966 still learning stuff
Since going with any 3/16 I've only used two brands, DSD and D&G. Both seemed to have a lot of elasticity. I'm not sure a flare on those stretchier brands would help.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
That's a good point. Until this year, I was on a combination of Leader, CDL and D&G. Flaring helped on the first two, but not sure I need it on the D&G. I'm all D&G this year, as that's what I could buy locally, and I have had very good results with it. I will be tapping today, so we shall see how it goes. I'll still carry my needle nose pliers though.Originally Posted by maple flats
This morning I went around and charged a bunch of yr old tees on my 3/16 tubing. I find it easiest to cut the drop off (I use all 5/16 drop and taps) then I use a 1 hand tool to push the new tee onto the drop, then I use my 2 hand LOAC tool, adjusted for 3/16, I spread the handles, then cut the old tee out. Then I start the tee on one side by hand, and then align the other and use the LOAC to finish.
I change every fitting in the 3/16 lines every year, that includes any connectors and end line fittings too. New tap in 2nd yr and 3rd yr drops. Yr 1 drops sometimes get a CV tap, most get a seasonal tap.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
I use my 5/16" 2-handed tool with pieces of 5/16" in the grips to allow for use with 3/16". That tool has a flare that's handy, but you still have to be careful to line the flare up with the 3/16" tubing, too! Like Dave said, it's not quick.
But...
When I'm replacing drops, I cut the old tee out just at or before the first barb. Then I use the tip of my cutting tool to pry out the end of the tee from the tubing. It's only like 1/16" to 1/8" in there and it sometimes falls out. The part of the tubing that's left if pre-flared from having been on the previous T and getting a new fitting on is a bit quicker. The occasional misalignment is still a total PITA, though.
Woodville Maples
www.woodvillemaples.com
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Around 300 taps on tubing, 25+ on buckets if I put them out
Mix of natural and mechanical vac, S3 Controller from Mountain Maple
2x6 W.F. Mason with Phaneuf pans
Deer Run 250 RO
Ford F350
6+ hives of bees (if they make it through the winters)
Keeping the day job until I can start living the dream.
I do the same as SeanD when replacing fittings. So far only 5/16 but next year all my 3/16 fittings get replaced.
I use the LOAC two handed tool I start one side by hand as Maple Flats said and I leave as little as possible sticking out of the clamp,works for me.
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