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Thread: Pressure regulating valve on feed line?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Raymond, ME
    Posts
    36

    Default Pressure regulating valve on feed line?

    First off, huge thanks to this community. I'm in the process of getting a new sugarhouse up and running and I have researched and read 100's of posts over the past 4 months to make sure I don't miss anything. Did a test fire on our new cdl traditional 2x6 and realized we have WAY too much head pressure coming in from the head tank. It is 6' above evaporator and already plumbed with 1.25 copper. I have to choke down ball valve on feed to almost closed and it is still pushing past float unless it's perfectly set. I'm afraid it's going to be too finicky to run like that and afraid of it clogging choked down that much. Any help is greatly appreciated.
    Ryan
    24x24 post and beam Sugarhouse (built by Lyle Merrifield and crew)
    2x6 raised flue cdl traditional evaporator
    600 gallon milk tank
    300 taps on combination of 3/16 and buckets

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Ballston spa
    Posts
    74

    Default

    Use a smaller ball valve so you can keep it open more. Other than that just keep babysitting it until you get it right. Even then keep an o s&$t bucket just in case.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Rumney NH
    Posts
    125

    Default

    I have same problem. get a bigger float or put less in your head tank.
    2017 140 taps 30x8 12x16 shack 28.5 gal
    2018 158 taps 30x8 12x16 shack with 8x8 kitchen 44 gal
    2019 223 taps 30x8 12x16 shack with 8x8 kitchen 36 gal
    2020 226 taps 30x8 12x16 shack with 8x8 kitchen 250 waterloo ro 63 gal
    2021 230 taps 30x8 12x16 shack with 8x8 kitchen 250 waterloo ro 37 gal
    2022 230 taps 30x8 12x16 shack with 8x8 kitchen 250 waterloo ro 55 gal
    2023 235 taps 30x8 12x16 waterloo ro

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,547

    Default

    Can you lower the head tank? My head tank sets at 18" from the float level to the bottom of the tank, and my tank is about 3' high when full. My feed line is 1" and the ball valve is open fully when boiling. my float has no problem controlling the flow.
    First off, check the gasket that is on the float valve, is it in perfect condition and clean? Look for other ideas to increase the flow control. Also caqll CDL for their ideas or even your dealer.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,547

    Default

    If you do go with a smaller valve I strongly advise you set it up as 2 parallel lines, splitting, then reduce one to a smaller valve and then join the original 1.25" line before the float valve. That way if you need more sap in a hurry you can open the 1.25" supply valve. This does not replace the Oh Sh^t bucket of sap or water just in case.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

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