Oil Conversion

[Brian]

No, The low fire is great to start on then turn on high fire. same for shutting down, turn it down to low fire then off. this takes the ignition pressure off the pans. When the pans are cold on start up, they will instantly soot up, then when every thing comes up to temp you need enough heat to burn the soot off the pans. Soot is a good insulator. that is why you need the high stack temp. this is one of the great things about the 2 stage. the 601 burner with a big nozzle can lift the pans a little on ignition.

[Brian]

Once you get it together you will love it. It sounds hard but it is not. You don't need a barometric damper either. William is right about a sight hole for Adjusting the air. you could weld a nipple on to the steel plate then screw a cap on it.

[wiam]

This is how far mine sticks in. You are welcome to stop by and look at mine. I also have several 4 to 7 gph nozzles if you want to try different ones with out buying new. ( from my experimenting).

[wiam]

This shows where the ramp is on mine. I can get measurements when I get home.

[Chasefamily]

Well I finally got my burner hooked up and fired. I put a 4.5 hollow 80 deg nozzle. It does seem to start up smoothly and didn't see much smoke maybe in daylight I can tell more out the stack. I turned it on and in about 6-7 mins the flue pan was boiling and at 9-10 mins the center rear half of the syrup pan was. So I didn't run it long enough to fully find out what the syrup pan boil would be although not sure what I would do to help that besides maybe tipping burner up, spacing burning out, or adding some sort of fire wall. Although maybe after fully up to temp the boil will be fine. But it seems very nice to just flip a switch and almost instantly see steam.

I will try to check stack temp next time I fire but I'm running a 15 inch stack that's about 25 ft tall with no barometric dampner at the moment