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Thread: Remade evaporator.

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Middlebury In. U.S.
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    116

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    One other question I was thinking today is would it be better for the boil process to reverse the pans,with the short pan in front?

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Minnesota
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    117

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    Looks like it things should be fine with your design, I would focus on your airflow. It either isn't getting enough and can't get hot enough or your fan is blowing too much and blowing the heat out the stack.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    Middlebury In. U.S.
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    116

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    Thanks for the reply.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
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    11,566

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    I wonder if the slope you have under the rear pan should be all of the way to under the stack base? On every evaporator I've had (3 over the years) that space pushing the heat up ended a few inches (3-5") before the stack base. All of my evaporators had a very hard boil, with or even without a blower. I suggest you try removing that ramp at about 3" before the base stack begins, at that point have it drop down about 6 or even 8". Be sure to have brick under that lower area too, to protect the arch floor.
    How are you reading the stack temperature, with a probe in the lower end of the 6" stack or just using a surface mount, or a IR non contact on the base stack?
    I suspect in your attempt to push the exhaust out you are squeezing or restricting it right under the base stack.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Middlebury In. U.S.
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    116

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    Dave, The restricted area goes to the stack base. I will go back in and drop it down and see how it reacts. I am using a non contact temp. reader.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Middlebury In. U.S.
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    116

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    Today I made my first sap boil Overall it worked great It boiled much faster then it did before the conversion . Had a rolling boil in the 2 runs on the left side of the front pan , but the right or finishing run boiled but not as vigorous as the other 2. The back pan with a divider running crosswise yust boiled but not hardy. Over all I am pleased. Just need some input on why the rt. front is not as vigorous. Try to keep the wood even across the fire box.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Quaker Hill, CT
    Posts
    328

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    Your draft blower is mounted in the front and pushing the fire towards the back of the evaporator. That's likely why you have a slightly colder spot in the front. You could try looking into how your draft enters the fire box and possibly make a baffle to force the air under the grate and under the fire rather than rise up in front of the fire creating a cold zone by the front wall of the fire box.
    2017 25 taps on buckets got me hooked 1 gallon of sweet
    2018 51 taps on 3/16 tubing/ DIY oil tank evaporator 8.5gallons finished
    2019 60 taps 7 gallons finished ended season short
    2020 New 2x4 divided pan ready to get away from the headache that is steam table pans
    2021 off year due to pandemic and projects
    2022 back at it

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Middlebury In. U.S.
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    116

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    Thanks I'll try that.

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