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Thread: Concentrate restriction valve

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    72

    Default Concentrate restriction valve

    Been running a home build ro for the first couple runs this year. Procon 660 with 2- 4x40s. If I open my concentrate restrictor valve all the way open, I can't run the ro. Pressure goes to 250+ on start up and unit will just shut itself down. I have a 3/4" needle valve to adjust pressure. The passageway inside this valve (3/8" or smaller) is too small for my pump to flow sap through without building high pressure. Ive been able to use the ro by cracking open my recirculation line which allows me to run as low as 180psi.

    Its obvious to me the issue is the needle valve not being large enough. So my question is what type of valve is best suited for setting pressure in my situation. A gate valve seems like if would have the most flow through capacity. However I read they arent meant to adjust flow but are meant for on or off purposes.

    I worry a globe valve wouldnt flow enough as they also typically have a somewhat smaller passageway inside them. Similar to my current needle valve. Anyone else had this issue? I'm leaning towards the gate valve at this point.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Shannonville,Ontario
    Posts
    1

    Default

    I used a gate valve, seems to work OK so far

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    North Grenville, Ontario
    Posts
    971

    Default

    I had the same problem. So I plumbed a bypass into my system.
    It still needs some tweaks. But it cuts down system pressure on startup big time. Increases flow as well.
    From my concentrate out line from membrane I put a 4 way cross fitting.
    1 line to needle valve
    1 line to recirc needle valve
    1 line to bypass.
    I then put a ball valve on the bypass line and ran a line to a T fitting at my concentrate flow meter.
    It works great. I was originally had pressures of 150-175 with my needle valve wide open.
    But get around 75 now. But I’d like to even bring that down.
    So I plan on isolating the bypass.
    I’m going to use a 3/4” cross fitting. And a 3/4” line from membrane concentrate out. 1/2” line to everything else
    And a separate flow meter 3/4”. This should stop all restriction and reduce pressure hopefully.
    600 taps on vacuum
    Lapierre mechanical Releaser
    CDL electric releaser
    2.5 x 10 CDL Venturi ( new for the 2024 season )
    Home made modulating auto draw off
    Homemade RO 2 x 4" membranes
    CDL 16 x 16 bottler
    Wesfab 7" filter press
    Delaval 73 vacuum pumps

    12 hives of bees

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,566

    Default

    The main issue is that a Procon 660 essentially pumps 660 gpm. That is far too much without creative plumbing on 2- 4x40 membranes. That would be good for 1- 8x40 or 4 - 4x40's
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    North Grenville, Ontario
    Posts
    971

    Default

    It’s definitely an oversized pump for a 2X40 system.
    The 660 procons are 1” discharge so
    I’m sure if you installed a 1” tee and ball valve right off the pump before membrane with a 1” or even 3/4” hose on it and have it run back to the feed tank. This would reduce pressure big time and to start concentrating you slowly close it and then start closing your needle valve.
    600 taps on vacuum
    Lapierre mechanical Releaser
    CDL electric releaser
    2.5 x 10 CDL Venturi ( new for the 2024 season )
    Home made modulating auto draw off
    Homemade RO 2 x 4" membranes
    CDL 16 x 16 bottler
    Wesfab 7" filter press
    Delaval 73 vacuum pumps

    12 hives of bees

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,566

    Default

    Ideas like that are what I mean when I say "creative plumbing" Maybe even a 1/2" bypass with a ball valve, going back to the source tank. The size of the bypass and how much if any to restrict it are the question.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    72

    Default

    I know its oversized but the plan was to start big with the pump and motor so I can grow the system as needed. Plus I got the pump brand new on auction under $200. I like the adjustable bypass between the procon and membranes idea. So simple not sure why I didn't think of that! The rest of the system is designed to run 660 gph without building pressure. All my stainless piping,hoses,and end caps are 3/4" or 1". Its just the needle valve that bottle necks the flow. Going to order fittings for a bypass. Once again, thanks

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,566

    Default

    You may even want a gate valve for regulating the bypass flow. Once set it might not need further adjusting. Try it.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Marysville, Ohio
    Posts
    663

    Default

    If you could send me a sketch of your set up I might be able to help. Send it pm in case I don't check the forum that often. I'm finishing my season and cleaning up. Generally speaking you should use a needle valve or globe valve to regulate flow or pressure. A gate or ball valve will work but they are better suited for on or off operation not flow modulation.The recirculation line should have a needle or globe valve in it. It's the line you use to adjust the pressure. It does sound like your valves may be too small but I haven't had time to check the sizing.
    Leader 1/2 pint - Kawasaki Mule - Smoky Lake Filter Bottler
    24 GPH RO, 2 1/2 x 40 NF3 (NF270), 140 GPH (Brass with no relief valve ) ProCon pump
    2013 - 44 taps - 16 gallons syrup, 2014 - 109 taps - 26 gallons syrup
    2015 - 71 taps - 13.5 gallons syrup, 2016 - 125 taps - 24.25 gallons syrup
    2017 - 129 taps - 17.5 gallons syrup, 2018 - 128 taps- 18 gallons syrup
    2019 -130 taps - 18.5 gallons syrup, 2020 ~125 taps-19.75 gallons syrup

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