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Thread: manifold build for "shurflo" set-up ?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Eden Prairie, MN
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    1,636

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    Quote Originally Posted by NhShaun View Post
    Nice set up you've got there. Curious about how you connected the battery charger to the pump, are you not using a battery and just directly wiring it?
    Thanks. In my experience, the 12V Shurflo pumps last and the 120V AC ones don't. I have power nearby and use the battery charger to provide 12Vdc to the pump.

    Another thing to mention: See how the pump is oriented? I have the inlet on top with a strainer and a good size inlet tube. The pump seems to work best that way.
    Last edited by RileySugarbush; 02-24-2022 at 06:22 PM.
    John
    2x8 Smokylake drop flue with AOF/ AUF
    180 taps on sacks
    75 on 3/16 tubing with shurflo
    Eden Prairie, Minnesota

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Putnam County, Ohio
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wollmann View Post
    I don't understand this
    elbow and make sure the fittings side is pointed up fittings side is pointed up
    any pics?

    martin
    Sorry, like others on the site, I am having trouble posting a photo. Coming right off the strainer I have a 3-way valve. After that are 3 t's and then an elbow, each with a 5/16 hose barb. The recirculation line coming off the valve has a 3/16 line going into the tank. With the 3-way valve open and no restriction in the line I get 8" Hg. If I close off the valve, the vacuum drops to 6". By putting a c-clamp on the recirc line to restrict the flow, i get my best vacuum which is 10" Hg. I did an experiment today. Moving the vacuum gauge to where the recirc line is and shutting off the rest of the manifold, I still only get <10" vacuum. At what point should I assume the diaphragm?

    Also, what should the sap look like in a drop that is below the lateral? Should the line look full of sap? Most of my drops are above the lateral but the one or two that are not look to have sap sitting in them. Would they look this way at 20" too? At some point, does this sap get drawn up into the line?

    Sorry for the questions. My hope was that once tapped and the pump running, I would be seeing vacuum numbers like others post about (20" or better). The good news is there is sap going in the tank. As a first timer though, without having seen a working set-up of anyone else's, I am trying to understand the flaws and make it work the best I can.
    RC Maple

    14X14 sugarhouse - new for 2012
    RO Bucket - RB10 - New for 2019
    2x3 barrel evaporator with continuous flow pan
    55 taps - most on buckets
    This is next year!

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Wind Lake, WI
    Posts
    523

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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Maple View Post
    Sorry, like others on the site, I am having trouble posting a photo. Coming right off the strainer I have a 3-way valve. After that are 3 t's and then an elbow, each with a 5/16 hose barb. The recirculation line coming off the valve has a 3/16 line going into the tank. With the 3-way valve open and no restriction in the line I get 8" Hg. If I close off the valve, the vacuum drops to 6". By putting a c-clamp on the recirc line to restrict the flow, i get my best vacuum which is 10" Hg. I did an experiment today. Moving the vacuum gauge to where the recirc line is and shutting off the rest of the manifold, I still only get <10" vacuum. At what point should I assume the diaphragm?

    Also, what should the sap look like in a drop that is below the lateral? Should the line look full of sap? Most of my drops are above the lateral but the one or two that are not look to have sap sitting in them. Would they look this way at 20" too? At some point, does this sap get drawn up into the line?

    Sorry for the questions. My hope was that once tapped and the pump running, I would be seeing vacuum numbers like others post about (20" or better). The good news is there is sap going in the tank. As a first timer though, without having seen a working set-up of anyone else's, I am trying to understand the flaws and make it work the best I can.
    Are you sure your gauge is accurate? Got another one to try?

    I, and others, control recirculation with a needle valve. It doesn't take much so maybe there needs to be a bit more precision in your flow rate there. Hard to say without seeing it in action though.
    42.82N
    2015 - Small operation. 25 buckets. One excited 5 year old and one 35 year old that feels 5 again.
    2016 - One year older. New Homemade 2x4 Arch, Smoky Lake Pan and looking at 52 maples, 17 box elders and 2 walnut trees.
    2017 - Shurflo 4008 hooked to 42 stingy silver maples and a few Norways. A couple buckets on sugars and Norways. 10 box elders.
    2018 - ...a few more taps.
    2019 - ...more taps on 3/16 gravity. This spiral is heading downward in a hurry.
    2020 - 4x400 RO - RB20 (uh-oh!)

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    Putnam County, Ohio
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    380

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    Quote Originally Posted by littleTapper View Post
    Are you sure your gauge is accurate? Got another one to try?

    I, and others, control recirculation with a needle valve. It doesn't take much so maybe there needs to be a bit more precision in your flow rate there. Hard to say without seeing it in action though.
    I'm sure the gauge is pretty close. I also have a gauge on each of my three lines coming into the manifold. They all read about 1-2" less than the gauge on the manifold - which seems right to me. Two of those lines are about 500 ft long and the other is about 300 ft. I like the needle valve idea - might be my next improvement. I found that using my c-clamp on that line I was able to get the vacuum up to 11.5-12". This gets me 8-10" at the end of the laterals.
    RC Maple

    14X14 sugarhouse - new for 2012
    RO Bucket - RB10 - New for 2019
    2x3 barrel evaporator with continuous flow pan
    55 taps - most on buckets
    This is next year!

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Wind Lake, WI
    Posts
    523

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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Maple View Post
    I'm sure the gauge is pretty close. I also have a gauge on each of my three lines coming into the manifold. They all read about 1-2" less than the gauge on the manifold - which seems right to me. Two of those lines are about 500 ft long and the other is about 300 ft. I like the needle valve idea - might be my next improvement. I found that using my c-clamp on that line I was able to get the vacuum up to 11.5-12". This gets me 8-10" at the end of the laterals.
    Good deal! Nice when you can validate the equipment is measuring correctly! Needle valve probably would be a good next step.
    42.82N
    2015 - Small operation. 25 buckets. One excited 5 year old and one 35 year old that feels 5 again.
    2016 - One year older. New Homemade 2x4 Arch, Smoky Lake Pan and looking at 52 maples, 17 box elders and 2 walnut trees.
    2017 - Shurflo 4008 hooked to 42 stingy silver maples and a few Norways. A couple buckets on sugars and Norways. 10 box elders.
    2018 - ...a few more taps.
    2019 - ...more taps on 3/16 gravity. This spiral is heading downward in a hurry.
    2020 - 4x400 RO - RB20 (uh-oh!)

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    1

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    I use a six way star 12v shur flow pump last year gave me 20 on vacuum changed to a cheaper pump this year gives me a constant 27. I used pex with a toilet valve 1/4inch return line

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Putnam County, Ohio
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    380

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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wollmann View Post
    I don't understand this
    elbow and make sure the fittings side is pointed up fittings side is pointed up
    any pics?

    martin
    Sure flo manifold.jpg

    I haven't revisited this thread for a while or tried to download a picture that the site wouldn't let me do last season...but it works now. Here is the photo of my pump and manifold. My issue is still the same...low vacuum and even less without recirculation. I have the recirculation valve off in the photo and you can see the vacuum I am getting. My 5/16" lines have very little slope so there will be no gravity from sap flow. I'm getting things around now and will retape fittings and check vacuum again before the season. I added hose clamps on the lines at the hose barbs but see most videos of good performing systems don't have them. How likely is it the pump is the issue for low vacuum levels? Again, my best vacuum at anytime last year was 15" - but usually about 12". With some wisdom gathered here, I'd like to be over 20".
    RC Maple

    14X14 sugarhouse - new for 2012
    RO Bucket - RB10 - New for 2019
    2x3 barrel evaporator with continuous flow pan
    55 taps - most on buckets
    This is next year!

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Princeton, MA
    Posts
    495

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    Quote Originally Posted by RC Maple View Post
    Attachment 22695

    I haven't revisited this thread for a while or tried to download a picture that the site wouldn't let me do last season...but it works now. Here is the photo of my pump and manifold. My issue is still the same...low vacuum and even less without recirculation. I have the recirculation valve off in the photo and you can see the vacuum I am getting. My 5/16" lines have very little slope so there will be no gravity from sap flow. I'm getting things around now and will retape fittings and check vacuum again before the season. I added hose clamps on the lines at the hose barbs but see most videos of good performing systems don't have them. How likely is it the pump is the issue for low vacuum levels? Again, my best vacuum at anytime last year was 15" - but usually about 12". With some wisdom gathered here, I'd like to be over 20".
    You might start off by removing and pressure testing the manifold assembly. Try looping the 5/16" barbs back on each other with tubing or otherwise block off all openings except one. Remove gauge. Then attach an air compressor fitting, pressurize to 25PSI, and dunk in a pan of water to find any leaks. The stainless fittings have to be sealed well. It's a bit of work but necessary IMO.

    If possible, keep all of the sap line fittings blocked except one, and try to recirculate water or sap from a bucket with the pump. Use a 10' or longer piece of 3/16 line for this or use a needle valve to restrict flow. You should be able to get at least 20" vacuum, I usually get 24-25". I do this on all systems that I sell.

    Once it is OK and set up with lines, look for any line that is more than about 50% air bubbles and/or moving much faster than the others. That line may be leaking. Try clamping off a line with needle nose vise grips with tubing over the ends. If vacuum goes up, that line is leaking.

    A loose strainer bowl or fitting, or badly clogged strainer are other things to look at. Bad pump is a possibility but rare. There should be strong vacuum if you take the pump inlet off and place your hand over it. Good luck and let us know what you find out.
    Mountain Maple farm
    2022 NAMSC award winning dark amber syrup
    2023: 320 taps, 70% red maples. Mountain Maple S4 diaphragm pump controller with automated sap transfer and text messaging
    Website:
    https://www.mountainmaplefarm.com
    https://www.facebook.com/MountainMapleFarm/

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Putnam County, Ohio
    Posts
    380

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    Quote Originally Posted by Biz View Post
    Good luck and let us know what you find out.
    Great! Thanks for the info. Dealing with a setup that never seemed to be working how I thought it should was a continual wet blanket on my mood when I should have been enjoying the best time of the year. Hopefully, I will find the issue.
    RC Maple

    14X14 sugarhouse - new for 2012
    RO Bucket - RB10 - New for 2019
    2x3 barrel evaporator with continuous flow pan
    55 taps - most on buckets
    This is next year!

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    ns
    Posts
    98

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    Biz
    good info you passed along. i have a question though, why should the return feed line to the pump be at lest 10' long

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