Valves for Isolating Leaks on 3/16

[kboone1]

Hey all, quick question.

What valves do you use for isolating leaks on a 3/16 Shurflo system? I do not have a store close to me to merit trial and error, and was curious if anyone would be willing to share a link for the valves they use that have been proven to work well (create a good seal and didn't break super easy). Thanks!

Kody

[maple flats]

I don't valve any of my lateral lines, 3/16 or 5/16, I only valve mainlines.
To find leaks in 3/16 just watch the sap-air (gases) movement in the line. A leak will show itself because the air leaking in will be seen, usually a fast line of bubbles. If no leaks, the movement will be slow and steady. A leaky tap, or fitting can easily be seen.

[kboone1]

I don't valve any of my lateral lines, 3/16 or 5/16, I only valve mainlines.
To find leaks in 3/16 just watch the sap-air (gases) movement in the line. A leak will show itself because the air leaking in will be seen, usually a fast line of bubbles. If no leaks, the movement will be slow and steady. A leaky tap, or fitting can easily be seen.

I do this on my gravity 3/16 lines, but the lines I am putting on my low lines are flat or coming uphill at the last bit. I need a way to easily and quickly isolate any leaks so I do not lose the sap production in all the lines for an extended period of time. I am just wanting to put like a push-type valve on each 3/16 right at the manifold so I can close off each line until I see the vacuum come back when one is off. Due to the configuration of the lines, if one goes, I am guessing I will lose sap production in all lines until that leak is found and fixed.

I know I posted some questions about bringing the sap uphill with this pump system, and people weren't crazy about the idea, but I am doing it anyway since it is the only way to get these taps on a budget (plus I want to help others if it is possible). I thought maybe someone had experience with some valves that were easily placed on a 3/16 line at the manifold, but if not, i will rack my brain some more!

Kody

[mol1jb]

I used to have a valve per 3/16 on my manifold but I never used the valves so when I changed things up I took them out. Here is what I found. If I had a leak I would not turn the line off since I needed to find the leak easily and turning off the line would make it harder. Also when I had a leak it usually only takes 10-30 minutes to track it down and fix it (I have very long runs of 1500 to 2k ft). I think the only time I actually used the valve was to turn off a line that I found leaking right before dark. My solution was to check lines earlier in the day.

[BlueberryHill]

Z_yvqvfo5oy.JPGGet some cheap mini vise grips on ebay (or maybe harbor freight). The kind with the flat jaws, not curved. Cut 2 pieces of 5/16 tubing and heat the up till soft and slide them over the upper and lower jaws of the vise grip. Now you have a tool that you can use to pinch off your 3/16 lines individually to help isolate leaks. Make a few cause they always get misplaced, haha.

[kboone1]

I used to have a valve per 3/16 on my manifold but I never used the valves so when I changed things up I took them out. Here is what I found. If I had a leak I would not turn the line off since I needed to find the leak easily and turning off the line would make it harder. Also when I had a leak it usually only takes 10-30 minutes to track it down and fix it (I have very long runs of 1500 to 2k ft). I think the only time I actually used the valve was to turn off a line that I found leaking right before dark. My solution was to check lines earlier in the day.

I am in the same boat on line lengths, and I am not opposed to walking, but my concern is that I will have to walk every line each time since no line will be running without vacuum. All lines on this system are flat or coming uphill, so the sap will be sitting I believe. I could be wrong, I may have enough vacuum with a small leak to draw the sap in the other lines, but if I can isolate the lines to know which line is leaking, it would potentially save me lots of walking and sap loss. I definitely appreciate the input, and agree for sure that as long as you can see the leaks, it isn't bad finding and fixing them. I am just concerned it will be super tough finding them with my configuration!

Kody

[kboone1]

Attachment 20577Get some cheap mini vise grips on ebay (or maybe harbor freight). The kind with the flat jaws, not curved. Cut 2 pieces of 5/16 tubing and heat the up till soft and slide them over the upper and lower jaws of the vise grip. Now you have a tool that you can use to pinch off your 3/16 lines individually to help isolate leaks. Make a few cause they always get misplaced, haha.

I may try this idea, as long as it doesn't crimp or permanently restrict the line, this would be good!

[mol1jb]

I am in the same boat on line lengths, and I am not opposed to walking, but my concern is that I will have to walk every line each time since no line will be running without vacuum. All lines on this system are flat or coming uphill, so the sap will be sitting I believe. I could be wrong, I may have enough vacuum with a small leak to draw the sap in the other lines, but if I can isolate the lines to know which line is leaking, it would potentially save me lots of walking and sap loss. I definitely appreciate the input, and agree for sure that as long as you can see the leaks, it isn't bad finding and fixing them. I am just concerned it will be super tough finding them with my configuration!

Kody

Well one of the great things about 3/16 is it is super easy to identify leaks. Since they run in solid columns of sap under normal conditions, you can tell immediately which of your lines is flowing normal and which has all air instead of sap. I always start where my 3/16 come into the mainline and look for any with lots of air and little sap. Then I just follow that one back till I spot the leak (all air before the leak, solid sap behind the leak).

[mspina14]

I used these valves on my 5/16 tubing lines connected to a Lunchbox vacuum pump/releaser

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had 3 lateral lines coming into the pump. If I had a leak in a line, the Lunchbox would make a loud rapid fire sound like a machine gun.

I put one of these valves on each line near the pump. If the pump indicated a leak, I'd close off each line one at a time with the valve. This allowed me to isolate the leak to a particular line. Then I'd use vise grips along the leaking line to try and identify the leaking section of tubing or tap.

[White Crow]

I use a 1/2" pvc for my manifold with 8 3/16 lines, I use 1/4 turn pvc valves and they work great. I use them after I find the leaking line. I shut off the leaking line to keep the sap from going backwards while I do the repair. I also shut off all the lines at night before turning off the surflo pump, again to keep the sap from going backwards