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Thread: BASIC QUESTIONS ABOUT ARCH DESIGN FOR 2' x 5' PAN

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    hills west of Jeff City Missouri
    Posts
    134

    Default BASIC QUESTIONS ABOUT ARCH DESIGN FOR 2' x 5' PAN

    Hi from Missouri.... hoping to graduate from simple concrete block structure under our 2x5 flat pan to a custom-made welded steel arch with insulation. In theory this will increase our fuel efficiency and save our knees when we throw fuel in. And hopefully control airflow better.

    Question 1) How deep (front to back should the firebox be, either in inches or as a percentage of total length?

    Question 2) to save $$ and cut down on weight, can I use 2 thicknesses of 1/2" durock concrete board instead of firebrick? I know it will deteriorate, but I can replace it after the season. I can easily cut durock sheets, it comes in sizes of 3'x5'.

    Question 3) I don't have a cast iron grate. I will fab up a grate frame that can be dropped in and replaced if necessary. What steel sections should I use to fab a grate?

    Question 4) I will install a port to connect tube from small vacuum cleaner to blow air in. Where should I place the port for the blower; in front of arch, under grate, in back of arch? side?

    Question 5) We use 6" pipe for flue.... is that large enough for this unit?

    Question 6) are there any websites or postings in mapletrader that you know of that could help me in my design/fab?

    THanks. UncleJohn
    2020: 220 trees, most smaller than 20" diameter, made 25 gallons
    remote location in western Cole County
    5/16" plastic spiles, drain into plastic buckets or sapsaks
    haul sap out of woods using atv & trailer
    wood-fired pans on concrete blocks
    one Leader Half Pint 24 x 33" plus 24 x 30 ss pan from a junkyard
    cook batch process then finish in the kitchen;
    we dont sell our syrup; its for family & friends
    see website www.mosyrup.com

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Esko,MN
    Posts
    290

    Default

    Question 1) How deep (front to back should the firebox be, either in inches or as a percentage of total length?

    Question 2) to save $$ and cut down on weight, can I use 2 thicknesses of 1/2" durock concrete board instead of firebrick? I know it will deteriorate, but I can replace it after the season. I can easily cut durock sheets, it comes in sizes of 3'x5'.

    Question 3) I don't have a cast iron grate. I will fab up a grate frame that can be dropped in and replaced if necessary. What steel sections should I use to fab a grate?

    Question 4) I will install a port to connect tube from small vacuum cleaner to blow air in. Where should I place the port for the blower; in front of arch, under grate, in back of arch? side?

    Question 5) We use 6" pipe for flue.... is that large enough for this unit?

    Question 6) are there any websites or postings in mapletrader that you know of that could help me in my design/fab?
    I would make sure that the firebox depth is deep enough so that you can alter your wood left to right then front to back. That way you alternate the way you put in your logs when you fire. I would consider making the firebox 18-20" deep to accommodate 16" length wood.

    Myself, I would not consider durock as I don't believe it will hold up to the 800-1000 degree temps you will have in your arch. I used a combination of ceramic blanket and half split firebrick.

    I built a grate made from 3/16" x 2" angle iron with the "V" of the angle iron up to trap ash and keep the grate from warping. Kinda like this [VVVVVVV]. I would allow 1/2" between the angle iron to hold the wood and allow the air to move up through the firebox. I also took out the firebrick on the floor to allow more air to flow up through the burning wood increasing the fire in the firebox.

    The port I believe should be centered in the back of the arch blowing forward under the grate. This allows you to have the hose out of the way so it doesn't melt if embers fall out the door. You will need to make the arch air tight or you might blow ashes out the door and you may need to shut the blower off between firing.

    I have a 2x8 evaporator and used 8" pipe. I think 6" will be fine to use.

    When I built my arch, I posted a few photos along the way.

    http://mapletrader.com/community/sho...2x8-Arch-Build
    Last edited by DocsMapleSyrup; 12-28-2019 at 10:10 PM.
    Chad

    2014: 12 taps, 5 gal buckets
    2015: 15 taps on bags
    2016: 150 taps: 100 on bags, 50 on 3/16" natural vac, 2x8 AUF/AOF Homebuilt Arch, 2x8 SL Drop Flu & Auto Draw, SL Propane Canner/Bottler
    2017: 225 taps: Built Lean to, Added SL hood, preheater, concentric exhaust, SL SS 7" SB Filter Press
    2018: 180 taps: Added Shurflo to 50 - 3/16", Auto fill sensor to head tank
    2019: No tapping
    2020: 175 taps
    2021: 300 taps, homemade RO and releaser
    2022: 600+ taps

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Albion PA
    Posts
    5,099

    Default

    Add your blower under the grate at the rear of the firebox.
    6 inch pip should be fine.
    1/4 thick 2 x 2 angle iron will last for a while. Cast material is better.
    firebox should be a least 2 foot deep front to back, would be a good start for your size rig.
    Use splits (firebrick for better function on the sides of your fire box. durock may work just not familiar with the product?
    Regards,
    Chris
    Casbohm Maple and Honey
    625 roadside taps + Neighbors bring some sap too!
    3x10 King, WRU, AOF and AUF
    12" SIRO Filter Press.
    2015 Ford F250 PSD sap hauler
    One Golden named Maggie, Norwegian Forest Cat named Lucy
    Too many Cub Cadets
    Ford Jubilee and several Allis WD's, and IH tractors
    1932 Ford AAB ton and a half, dump truck

    www.mapleandhoney.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Louisville, Kentucky
    Posts
    215

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by unclejohn View Post
    Hi from Missouri.... hoping to graduate from simple concrete block structure under our 2x5 flat pan to a custom-made welded steel arch with insulation. In theory this will increase our fuel efficiency and save our knees when we throw fuel in. And hopefully control airflow better.

    Question 1) How deep (front to back should the firebox be, either in inches or as a percentage of total length?

    Question 2) to save $$ and cut down on weight, can I use 2 thicknesses of 1/2" durock concrete board instead of firebrick? I know it will deteriorate, but I can replace it after the season. I can easily cut durock sheets, it comes in sizes of 3'x5'.

    Question 3) I don't have a cast iron grate. I will fab up a grate frame that can be dropped in and replaced if necessary. What steel sections should I use to fab a grate?

    Question 4) I will install a port to connect tube from small vacuum cleaner to blow air in. Where should I place the port for the blower; in front of arch, under grate, in back of arch? side?

    Question 5) We use 6" pipe for flue.... is that large enough for this unit?

    Question 6) are there any websites or postings in mapletrader that you know of that could help me in my design/fab?

    THanks. UncleJohn
    I've used cement board before as an arch skin, but the arch was still insulated. It held up fine for several seasons. It will deteriorate under enough heat - i.e. in contact with direct fire. I've put small pieces in a wood stove, and it eventually crumbled.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Dave Barker
    2014 30 taps, steam tray pans
    2015 ~100 taps, in conjunction with University of Louisville
    2x5 Smoky Lake hybrid pan
    2022 150 taps

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