+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24

Thread: Bricking a 2x3 WFMason arch

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Blue Hill, Maine
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by berkshires View Post
    So yours is *not* an XL, right? And the 2x3 XL is stepped up on the back, right? The bricking for that one would then be different from yours.

    Thanks!
    You are correct!
    2016- 7 taps w/ cement block arch
    2017- 41 taps w/ homemade oil barrel arch with a2x3 pan in a 8x8 shack
    2020- Got a 2x3 wfmason arch

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    ns
    Posts
    98

    Default

    nice work,liked the pictures. i am planing on putting in my order soon. i see that you used his 1/4 " arch paper to line the fire box. i guess the box isn't big enouth to use anything else is it? do you feel that little extra insulation is worth his price, seem fairly expensive.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nhdog View Post
    nice work,liked the pictures. i am planing on putting in my order soon. i see that you used his 1/4 " arch paper to line the fire box. i guess the box isn't big enouth to use anything else is it? do you feel that little extra insulation is worth his price, seem fairly expensive.
    Also wondering this. He is finishing my evaporator this week. I don't plan on buying the paper for that reason, it is expensive but would be interested to see what others say.

    If you plan on boiling on one this year you need to order ASAP. I wouldn't be surprised if you can't get one this year.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Westfield, NY
    Posts
    245

    Default

    I lined mine with arch board and splits. The last row of splits have a bevel cut in them to expose more area to the pan. Sides stay cool and it boils great.
    backyard hobbyist
    Mason 2x3 w/AUF
    2020 - added small vacuum and gravity 5/16 tubing and sap sacks
    N 42* 18' 31."
    W 79* 34' 15."
    https://www.saptapapps.com/map/31868...-aab748a6394e/

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    ns
    Posts
    98

    Default

    kubota,
    no i'm looking for the 2021 season. i got to do some work on my "sugar house"next summer, i'm useing a section of my over grown wood shed now.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Blue Hill, Maine
    Posts
    23

    Default

    The arch paper is enough insulation to hold a bare hand on the side of the arch vs a bit too hot. My idea is that it will help extend the life of the arch. I'm 28 and I plan on boiling till at least 100.
    2016- 7 taps w/ cement block arch
    2017- 41 taps w/ homemade oil barrel arch with a2x3 pan in a 8x8 shack
    2020- Got a 2x3 wfmason arch

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    NYS
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Thanks for the visual aid, @BlueMaple. I just did mine and will add some more photos as yours were helpful to me, maybe mine will be helpful to someone else.
    IMG_8257.jpgIMG_8260.jpgIMG_8258.jpgIMG_8259.jpgIMG_8256.jpg

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    NYS
    Posts
    15

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Greenwood, Me
    Posts
    974

    Default

    A) Fill that gap behind your wall. You want the space under the bottom of the back of the pan as narrow as you can get it. My stack vent is 2/3 obscured by bricks and it doesn't affect my draft.

    2) You are going to need some kind of metal between the stove and that pallet. With the blower on, sparks fly out of the ash door, even closed.
    2024 - New Maine resident, 12X12 sugar shack under construction
    2019 - New 12X12 boiling pavilion
    2018 - New Mason 2X3 Hobby XL and homemade RO

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    NYS
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by eustis22 View Post
    A) Fill that gap behind your wall. You want the space under the bottom of the back of the pan as narrow as you can get it. My stack vent is 2/3 obscured by bricks and it doesn't affect my draft.

    2) You are going to need some kind of metal between the stove and that pallet. With the blower on, sparks fly out of the ash door, even closed.
    1) Was thinking about walling up the back... thanks for the advice.

    2) I did a test run with water. Sparks definitely flew out the bottom! I threw snow on the pallet. So for next run I took a piece of ceramic blanket insulation and placed it right in there just behind the door. Think that will work as a sort of a spark arrestor?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts