+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Pipe Size Between Pans

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hartland, CT
    Posts
    38

    Default Pipe Size Between Pans

    I picked up a used Mason 2x3 that had been extended with a additional 2x4 rear pan during the off-season. The previous owner used a siphon system to move sap from one pan to the other, but I'd like to get away from that method and go with a more common approach.

    While checking out evaporators during a recent trip to Bascom's it looks like most of the small evaporator pans are using 1" and larger pipe to connect to each other. Would 1" be appropriate for the application or should I go larger? I'd love to use sanitary fittings, but their cost is so much greater than threaded pipe and fittings that I think I'm going that route instead.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,547

    Default

    I'd go 1.25" or 1.5". If you decide to use copper, put a union and a valve in so the flow can be stopped when you need to. That will be a huge improvement over a siphon system. On a siphon method it only takes 1 bubble to shut the siphon down, then you need to suck the air out of the high spot before it will resume working.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Center, Underhill Ctr, VT
    Posts
    6,393

    Default

    I agree with Dave. 1.25-1.5" would be better. Less chance of niter chunks clogging the pipe and stopping the flow.

    Although sanitary connections are more expensive, they are far easier to take apart and clean than NPT fittings.
    Dr. Tim Perkins
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
    http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
    https://mapleresearch.org
    Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Temperance Mi
    Posts
    411

    Default

    I have 3/4 inch copper lines between my pans. The only clogging problem I've had is when it freezes hard and that lets loose pretty quick. If I was to do it again I would go with 1 inch though for peace of mind.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,547

    Default

    Check out Tri-Clover fittings at https://www.brewershardware.com/Sanitary-Fittings/
    Their prices are better than most if not all, shipping is fast.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Hartland, CT
    Posts
    38

    Default

    Thank you everyone that shared your knowledge!

    Once I checked out the Brewers Hardware prices I went for the 1.5" Tri-Clover fittings. Less than $140 shipped for 1.5" ferrules, elbows, clamps, gaskets, and a ball valve!

    Now to find someone locally to weld the ferrules...

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts