+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Pole Barn - Sugar Shack

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Wilton, NH

    Default Pole Barn - Sugar Shack

    Will finally be moving the evaporator inside this season. No more "blizzard boiling" ....Yahoo !!
    Construction just starting on my new 28x48 pole barn; which I will partition inside into a 28x28 utility/storage area; and a 28x20 sugar shack.
    Couple of design questions:
    1. I plan to build a 4'x6' cupola directly over my Mason 2x4XL evaporator. The building plans call for that porous foam venting material along the full 48ft ridge (steel roof), installed before the ridge cap. Will that foam cause my rising steam to migrate along the full ridge, instead of exiting through the cupola doors? Should I delete the foam entirely, and then install a rectangular gable vent (which I could block off when boiling) at each end of the building in it's place? Maybe overthinking the venting here.
    2. Before pouring my slab, I want to install a drain directly under the evaporator. Have already run a line out to a new 500 gal. drywell for gray water. Thinking about one of those 4ft long trench drains running parallel beneath my evaporator for cleaning, etc. My issue is, all the trench drains I see so far are PVC or some other non-metallic material; and if I ever get to the point of growing into a hood/steam away, etc.; the water dropping into the drain would be too hot. Maybe a trench drain isn't necessary, just a well placed cast iron floor drain?
    Any and all help from the more experienced out there is appreciated.
    Thanks, Bill
    2017 - 3 taps hanging buckets. Turkey fryer evap.
    2017-2018 Caught a bad case of the maple bug. Built a 55 gal. barrel evap. and homemade RO
    2018 - 32 taps on 5 gal. buckets.
    2019 - New Mason 2x4 XL. 80 taps - 50 on 5 gal. buckets, 30 on 3/16 tubing

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Center, Underhill Ctr, VT


    1. Hard to say without knowing your full plans, but could you just go with a steam hood and steam stack to avoid the cupola altogether? They are much easier to deal with for long-term maintenance.

    2. Pour the cement with a lip set into it of the proper thickness and use metal grating cut to the appropriate size for the trench. Very easy to do.

    It is definitely a good idea to think about the amount of hot water going down the drain now and what you might have in the future. I've seen at least a few sugarhouses where PVC was used as a floor drain that ended up melting or separating, ending up with water just pouring into gravel under the slab afterward....sometimes with very bad results. Cast iron pipe works well.
    Dr. Tim Perkins
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Lake County Ohio


    My drain is in a corner about 6ft away from the arch. Most of the hot water we get from the steam hood and pre-heater is saved in buckets for cleaning hydros etc while boiling and wash up later.
    Most of the time, at the end of a boil, I pour it out onto the floor and squeegee on out an open door. It's still hot - not enough to do any damage to the pvc drain pipe - but sure does a nice job cleaning up the place!

    I have a 1" hose that runs to the drain from a Y Valve for cleaning the head tank and another that I can hook up to the flue or syrup pans for cleaning. Your place is much bigger so a drain in the corner may not work so well.
    John Allin

    14x18 Hemlock Timber Frame Sugar House 2009
    Leader 2x6 w/Patriot Raised Flue Pan 2009
    Leader Steam Hood 2014 - Clear Filter Press 2015
    Leader Revolution Pan and SS Pre-Heater 2016
    H20 Innovations Air Injection 2019
    CDL AirTech Pump Hi Vacuum 2019
    06' Gator HPX to collect wood & sap
    14' Ski-Doo Tundra for winter work in the woods
    Great Family 3 grown kids+spouses and 7 grand kids who like the woods
    7th Gen Canadian - Raised in Chardon Ohio - Maple Capital of the World...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Oneida NY


    About the steam and the ridge vent, regardless of the cupola or not, some steam will vent thru that type of ridge vent. A hood can all but eliminate that. I highly recommend you use a sheet goods type under the steel. If not the steel roofing will still sweat some and rain inside. I know, it has a way to always drip down the back of your neck. A hood all but eliminates that.
    How large of an evaporator do you see in your future? If counting on a cupola to vent the steam, make the cupola that square foot opening. If you never see one larger than a 2x6 or maybe a 3x8, make it a 12SF or 24SF opening.
    With an RO a 2x6 can do lots of taps worth of boiling, a 3x8 can do double that.
    Dave Klish about 1320 taps in '15, doing fewer each year, about 450 planned for 2020 (and after?)
    2012 Mahindra 36 HP 4x4/ loader/cab/heat/AC:-)
    added a gooseneck equipment trailer and F350 to tow it to haul more sap
    3x8 raised flue evaporator
    250 GPH converted to electric, RO by Ray Gingerich
    6.32 KW solar system, 1.48KW is battery backed up, all net metered
    website: www.cnymaple.com

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Westernville NY CNY


    Ours is a pole barn style too. Never regretted decision to use hoods and stacks for steam. Easier to construct and to keep water tight. Neighbor built at same time and style as us. They used a cupola and have fought with snow and rain blowing in. It may look more sugarish but we like functional. Dr Tim's idea with grating is what we did, works great. Plus I can drive skid steer over it if needed.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts