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Thread: My evaporator pit will this work?

  1. #1
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    Default My evaporator pit will this work?

    Im going to be making a pan to fit this but wanted to know what people think first? I flipped one of the cinderblocks in the back so the smoke can escape will that work or do i need to figure out a fluke?? I dont know if its necessary or what most set ups are like.
    1CE89511-DAB2-44E4-9201-883DCF17BC4A.jpg7A37BF5D-733C-4254-836F-0B71018B246F.jpg

  2. #2
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    Maybe- you might have a little too much space under the pans. How much of the pan will be resting on the bricks? you really want maybe 1/2". You will do better if you use a door too, with adjustable air inlet. Also, the block you have tirned is old enough that in has 3 holes. A new one with 2 larger holes should work better in my opinion.
    Dave Klish about 1320 taps in '15, doing fewer each year, about 450 planned for 2020 (and after?)
    2012 Mahindra 36 HP 4x4/ loader/cab/heat/AC:-)
    added a gooseneck equipment trailer and F350 to tow it to haul more sap
    3x8 raised flue evaporator
    250 GPH converted to electric, RO by Ray Gingerich
    6.32 KW solar system, 1.48KW is battery backed up, all net metered
    http://s1041.photobucket.com/albums/...anssugarhouse/
    website: www.cnymaple.com

  3. #3
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    I have pretty much the same setup for the last 4 years but I have 1chimney block flipped up to replace the top 2 blocks in the back with a 9inch elbow in the block and a 3 foot section of pipe coming out of the top of the elbow if you're boiling for a long time the ash will build up to your opening and block airflow. Also I have the blocks filled with sand that saves a lot of heat and helps to keep the blocks from cracking as much. For a door I just have a old piece of metal roofing sitting up on some firewood so the air can flow under the tin. Definitely not a efficient set up but still lots of fun and have made about 75 gallon of syrup with it over the years

  4. #4
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    I would move the Block that you are hoping that will be your (vent) or chimney if you will to the top of your firepit, that's where you want the heat is up top, you dont want to be pulling the draft down.
    Nate Hutchins
    Nate & Kate's Maple
    2018 1000 taps?
    20x36 sugarhouse
    CDL 600gph RO
    Franken evaporator, lapierre arch, smokylake pans and a leader hood with pre-heater.
    A wife and 2 kids.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by n8hutch View Post
    I would move the Block that you are hoping that will be your (vent) or chimney if you will to the top of your firepit, that's where you want the heat is up top, you dont want to be pulling the draft down.
    I'm not so sure about that. If I recall, back when I had a Half Pint, the directions said to build a wall at the back of the fire box, then the stack exited out the rear, a ways down. Also, on my wood stove in my house the stack exits down about 6" below the top. I suspect it has to do with the heat rising and the smoke exiting where it is a few degrees cooler. I guess the answer might be in between. Maybe remove an 8" block, and use 2 blocks 4" thick, one under the "vent" block and one over + one layer of bricks.
    Can you build a partition across the back of the fire area to fill the width and up to within maybe 2" or so of the pan, then a small open space where the stack exits behind it? That is similar to how the half pint said to brick that arch.
    Dave Klish about 1320 taps in '15, doing fewer each year, about 450 planned for 2020 (and after?)
    2012 Mahindra 36 HP 4x4/ loader/cab/heat/AC:-)
    added a gooseneck equipment trailer and F350 to tow it to haul more sap
    3x8 raised flue evaporator
    250 GPH converted to electric, RO by Ray Gingerich
    6.32 KW solar system, 1.48KW is battery backed up, all net metered
    http://s1041.photobucket.com/albums/...anssugarhouse/
    website: www.cnymaple.com

  6. #6
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    Maine
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    Default

    You got pictures of your chimney set up?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave&kyle View Post
    I have pretty much the same setup for the last 4 years but I have 1chimney block flipped up to replace the top 2 blocks in the back with a 9inch elbow in the block and a 3 foot section of pipe coming out of the top of the elbow if you're boiling for a long time the ash will build up to your opening and block airflow. Also I have the blocks filled with sand that saves a lot of heat and helps to keep the blocks from cracking as much. For a door I just have a old piece of metal roofing sitting up on some firewood so the air can flow under the tin. Definitely not a efficient set up but still lots of fun and have made about 75 gallon of syrup with it over the years
    Pictures of your chimney??

  8. #8
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    Mar 2008
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    Lake County Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by maple flats View Post
    I'm not so sure about that. If I recall, back when I had a Half Pint, the directions said to build a wall at the back of the fire box, then the stack exited out the rear, a ways down. Also, on my wood stove in my house the stack exits down about 6" below the top. I suspect it has to do with the heat rising and the smoke exiting where it is a few degrees cooler. I guess the answer might be in between. Maybe remove an 8" block, and use 2 blocks 4" thick, one under the "vent" block and one over + one layer of bricks.
    Can you build a partition across the back of the fire area to fill the width and up to within maybe 2" or so of the pan, then a small open space where the stack exits behind it? That is similar to how the half pint said to brick that arch.
    I agree with Nate. I also had a half pint and the stack did exit from the back of the arch, about 8" down on center.
    Dave, the wall you refer to was to keep the heat up high and close to bottom of the pan.
    Without it, the heat would just roar right on out of the back.
    Moving the open block to the top, in this case, would keep the heat high . A ramp would be a plus....
    John Allin

    14x18 Hemlock Timber Frame Sugar House 2009
    Leader 2x6 w/Patriot Raised Flue Pan 2009
    Leader Steam Hood 2014 - Clear Filter Press 2015
    Leader Revolution Pan and SS Pre-Heater 2016
    H20 Innovations Air Injection 2019
    CDL AirTech Pump Hi Vacuum 2019
    06' Gator HPX to collect wood & sap
    14' Ski-Doo Tundra for winter work in the woods
    Great Family 3 grown kids+spouses and 7 grand kids who like the woods
    7th Gen Canadian - Raised in Chardon Ohio - Maple Capital of the World...

  9. #9
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    Maine
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnallin View Post
    I agree with Nate. I also had a half pint and the stack did exit from the back of the arch, about 8" down on center.
    Dave, the wall you refer to was to keep the heat up high and close to bottom of the pan.
    Without it, the heat would just roar right on out of the back.
    Moving the open block to the top, in this case, would keep the heat high . A ramp would be a plus....
    Hard for me to picture it do you guys have some examples you could show me?

  10. #10
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    Oneida NY
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    You are correct, the partition on my old half pint did force the heat up. I remember the pan boiled the hardest directly over the partition. I think the partition was maybe 4" in from the back of the arch. The whole pan boiled when stoked well, in front of the partition it was a good rolling boil, over the partition there was a line across the pan that boiled even harder, then behind the partition the boil was still boiling but not quite as hard as in the front of the partition.
    Dave Klish about 1320 taps in '15, doing fewer each year, about 450 planned for 2020 (and after?)
    2012 Mahindra 36 HP 4x4/ loader/cab/heat/AC:-)
    added a gooseneck equipment trailer and F350 to tow it to haul more sap
    3x8 raised flue evaporator
    250 GPH converted to electric, RO by Ray Gingerich
    6.32 KW solar system, 1.48KW is battery backed up, all net metered
    http://s1041.photobucket.com/albums/...anssugarhouse/
    website: www.cnymaple.com

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