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Thread: Possible firebox revision, looking for comments

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Ulster Park, NY
    Posts
    162

    Default Possible firebox revision, looking for comments

    Current unit is a wood fired D&G model 700 dropflue. At the back of the firebox is a metal plate, 1/4" thick, 3" high and runs the width of the firebox. With the flue pan in place, there is a 5-6" gap between the top of the plate and the bottom of the flues. Would it serve any purpose to add a 5-6" high extension to the top of the plate......thinking this would serve to get the flames up into the flues for a more efficient boil ?

    Thanks in advance for all comments.

    Rusty

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Rock Creek, NC
    Posts
    5,807

    Default

    That's exactly what you want to do. Raise it so that it's a 1/2" below the bottom of the flues and fill in the space behind it all of the way to the back of the arch.
    Russ

    "Red Roof Maples" Where the term "boiling soda" was first introduced to the maple world!

    1930 Ford Model AA Doodlebug tractor
    A couple of Honda 4 wheelers
    Four chainsaws and no chickens!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,566

    Default

    What Russ said.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Chatham NH
    Posts
    1,318

    Default

    I have a vertical wall in the back of my firebox that is basically level with the arch rails and goes back to within 3" of the stack collar before dropping down. It works great but I did get one place where the sap would jump out over the sides of my flu pan and it would make a mess on the side of the pan. It hasn't been much of an issue since I put my hood on.

    If I did it again I would probably put a slight taper at the back of the firebox maybe start 3" below my flues and taper up to 1/4" in the first foot or so. Of course mine is a raised flue this may not be an issue with a drop flue I've never had one.
    Nate Hutchins
    Nate & Kate's Maple
    2022 1000 taps?
    3x10 Intensofire
    20x36 sugarhouse
    CDL 600gph RO
    A wife and 2 kids.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,566

    Default

    When added air over fire (AOF) to my arch, I changed the ramp on my arch. the back wall of my firebox now rises straight up to 4" from the pans, then slopes up to within 1/4" at the same angle the original slope was. The air shoots out and down into the fire from 6" below the pans via nozzles made of black iron pipe. This has worked very well. Mine is raised flue.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

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