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Thread: Bubbler system—- needs to know

  1. #1
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    Default Bubbler system—- needs to know

    Have a bubbler system on order,should be in this fall. Couple of questions come to mind. When do you turn on and turn off the system,do you boil as hard or back off,what do you do during freeze ups,,what about clean up when the pan is flooded with cleaning solution,and anything else that comes to mind? Thanks in advance
    7th generation maple producer in sugarhouse built in 1892
    2x World Champion Maple Syrup Producer
    1250 taps on cv adapters
    Leader Vortex 3x14 with Max Flue and Revolution Syrup Pan,Enhanced Steam Away
    www.leggettmaplesyrup.com

  2. #2
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    Bruce, I put an H20 Air Injection System in last year... so far it has worked without issue. I'll try to fill in with what I've learned, but am sure there are others with more experience.

    I turn it on when I start the fire. I do not turn off until pans have cooled down some after I stop firing.
    That I learned from Russ at Red Roof Maples, an authority on bubblers with his Bubble Master.
    Said that if turned off too soon, the nitre will have a chance to settle onto the bottom of the pan - just what you're trying to avoid.

    Because I believe it may cool the sap a bit; I fired just as hard as I could and had about the same gph as in previous years.

    Clean up is easy as the syrup pan injector connects to the main air supply pipe with sanitary tri-clamp fittings. Just undo clamps and lift out, couldn't be any simpler. I did not keep it in the pan if I used a cleaner.

    I have injectors in both front and back pans with a stainless manifold made up with butterfly valves to throttle back as needed between the two. I found the front pan doesn't need all that much and if run wide open had syrup slashing all over the place. I run the flue pan with more air, but it's a bit of a pain at season end as, there too, it splashed hot sap all over the inside of the hood...

    All of the syrup made was much lighter than any previous year. As an experiment, I did not use on my last boil and we made darker that the previous day.

    If anything- and I may be wrong - I think the injection Did affect taste to a small degree, as our syrup didn't seem to be as sweet as in past years.

    It's loud - no it's really loud. I put the air blower out behind the sugar house, with intake facing down and covered the blower with a hood to keep rain etc out. Set up like that, I figured the air intake would be much cleaner.
    The blower came with 2, or 3 (not sure) charcoal filters.
    Good luck with yours, I may also be playing with air injection into my sap this year.

    John
    John Allin

    14x18 Hemlock Timber Frame Sugar House 2009
    Leader 2x6 w/Patriot Raised Flue Pan 2009
    Leader Steam Hood 2014 - Clear Filter Press 2015
    Leader Revolution Pan and SS Pre-Heater 2016
    CDL Hobby RO & Air Tech L25 Hi Vac Pump 2019
    06' Gator HPX to collect wood & sap
    14' Ski-Doo Tundra for winter work in the woods
    Great Family 3 grown kids+spouses and 7 grand kids who like the woods
    7th Gen Born in Canada - Raised in Chardon Ohio - Maple Capital of the World..<grin>.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce L View Post
    Have a bubbler system on order,should be in this fall. Couple of questions come to mind. When do you turn on and turn off the system,do you boil as hard or back off,what do you do during freeze ups,,what about clean up when the pan is flooded with cleaning solution,and anything else that comes to mind? Thanks in advance
    I light the fire in the evaporator and turn on the blower. Right after that I turn on the bubbler. I don't turn the bubbler off until the fire is out which keeps the nitre from settling to the bottom of the flues and burning. I boil as hard as I can without turning my stack purple. I don't do anything different during freeze ups. I've never removed the bubbler from the flue pan even when cleaning with vinegar.

    I think that the flavor of my syrup has improved with the bubbler and follows the color of the syrup. I have also noticed an increase in evaporation rate. I think that you're going to like the bubbler especially if you're trying to make golden syrup. With my set up I can make mostly golden by keeping the concentration percentage at 10% to 12%. After a couple of boils at 20% I can make dark.
    Russ

    "Red Roof Maples" Where the term "boiling soda" was first introduced to the maple world!

    1930 Ford Model AA Doodlebug tractor
    A couple of Honda 4 wheelers
    Four chainsaws and no chickens!

  4. #4
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    As John says, put the blower FAR away from where you are working. Those things can be really LOUD. In addition, keep the air inlet away from any sources of fumes...whether from vehicles (car/truck/tractor exhaust), fuel tank vents, or animals. None of those make for good tasting syrup.

    We found (through very careful measurement) that air injection has no effect on the amount of niter that needs to be filtered out (sugar sand particles) or the thickness of niter forming on the pans (scale) except directly around the air injection pipes, although because you are making really light syrup, you also make really light-colored niter, so it LOOKS like you have less niter.

    Air injection has the largest effect on color (makes much lighter syrup), relatively little effect on flavor, or niter, or sugar sand. It can reduce defoamer use in some instances.

    Your mileage may vary depending on the specific equipment and how it is operated.

    More information at https://mapleresearch.org/search/?_sf_s=air%20injection
    Dr. Tim Perkins
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
    http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
    https://mapleresearch.org
    Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu

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    Quote Originally Posted by DrTimPerkins View Post
    Thank you for that link Dr Tim. If I understood it correctly, Mr. Vernon states that his air is injected - at the top of the flue - and not the bottom.
    That is just the opposite of way mine, and most?, set ups are built, but it kind of makes sense.

    In his design, air is being forced down into the sap/syrup and then rising back to the top as opposed to just rising up from the bottom,
    It makes sense that more is better - Any thoughts on that? Thanks.

    Edit: I have air injection in both pans and just realized that the syrup pan is too shallow to bubble from the top.
    Last edited by johnallin; 09-17-2019 at 06:33 PM.
    John Allin

    14x18 Hemlock Timber Frame Sugar House 2009
    Leader 2x6 w/Patriot Raised Flue Pan 2009
    Leader Steam Hood 2014 - Clear Filter Press 2015
    Leader Revolution Pan and SS Pre-Heater 2016
    CDL Hobby RO & Air Tech L25 Hi Vac Pump 2019
    06' Gator HPX to collect wood & sap
    14' Ski-Doo Tundra for winter work in the woods
    Great Family 3 grown kids+spouses and 7 grand kids who like the woods
    7th Gen Born in Canada - Raised in Chardon Ohio - Maple Capital of the World..<grin>.

  6. #6
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    I can't speak to the design of his rig, but you are correct that most air injection units (for evaporators) lay near the bottom of the pans (flue or syrup pans).

    Make sure you have some way of regulating the air flow...too much is not good, too little is also not good.

    One of the criticisms we get of this research is that we found no difference in the amount of niter build-up (scale) in the pans. Many other people will say that air injection results in less niter. All I can say is that we actually measured it really carefully in dozens of places throughout the evaporators with and without air injection using an ultrasonic coating thickness gauge. We found NO difference. Similarly, we filtered every drop of sap coming from both evaporators and weighed the niter (sugar sand) coming out. Again, NO difference. The very clear difference was in niter (both scale and sugar sand) color. In the air injected evaporator the niter was very light (almost white), while in the regular evaporator it was dark...reflective of the syrup color. This made the scale APPEAR thicker on the non-air injected evaporator, but it was, in fact, not. We actually thought it was thicker until we actually measured it. Your mileage may vary.
    Dr. Tim Perkins
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
    http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
    https://mapleresearch.org
    Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrTimPerkins View Post
    ...Make sure you have some way of regulating the air flow...too much is not good, too little is also not good.
    Can you define what is too much - too little? I can regulate air from bubbles blasting syrup up to the rafters - to fully closed - or rolling like a lava lamp..but am still experimenting.

    Wondering what worked best at Proctor.......
    John Allin

    14x18 Hemlock Timber Frame Sugar House 2009
    Leader 2x6 w/Patriot Raised Flue Pan 2009
    Leader Steam Hood 2014 - Clear Filter Press 2015
    Leader Revolution Pan and SS Pre-Heater 2016
    CDL Hobby RO & Air Tech L25 Hi Vac Pump 2019
    06' Gator HPX to collect wood & sap
    14' Ski-Doo Tundra for winter work in the woods
    Great Family 3 grown kids+spouses and 7 grand kids who like the woods
    7th Gen Born in Canada - Raised in Chardon Ohio - Maple Capital of the World..<grin>.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnallin View Post
    Can you define what is too much - too little? I can regulate air from bubbles blasting syrup up to the rafters - to fully closed - or rolling like a lava lamp..but am still experimenting.

    Wondering what worked best at Proctor.......
    I regulate mine so that the near syrup doesn't splash all over the place with a nice boil in the front pan. I regulate the flue pan so that the sap doesn't bubble much in the float box. At those settings there isn't very much splashing going on and I don't use much defoamer.
    Russ

    "Red Roof Maples" Where the term "boiling soda" was first introduced to the maple world!

    1930 Ford Model AA Doodlebug tractor
    A couple of Honda 4 wheelers
    Four chainsaws and no chickens!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russell Lampron View Post
    I regulate mine so that the near syrup doesn't splash all over the place with a nice boil in the front pan. I regulate the flue pan so that the sap doesn't bubble much in the float box. At those settings there isn't very much splashing going on and I don't use much defoamer.
    Sounds right. Add a lot of air, but keep the liquid in the pan.
    Dr. Tim Perkins
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
    http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
    https://mapleresearch.org
    Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russell Lampron View Post
    I regulate mine so that the near syrup doesn't splash all over the place with a nice boil in the front pan. I regulate the flue pan so that the sap doesn't bubble much in the float box. At those settings there isn't very much splashing going on and I don't use much defoamer.
    Can there be too much air in the flue pan? Before I had the steam away on the boils would jump right out of the flue pan periodically,now with steam away on boils can’t jump out,but are certainly spitting sap all over the place
    7th generation maple producer in sugarhouse built in 1892
    2x World Champion Maple Syrup Producer
    1250 taps on cv adapters
    Leader Vortex 3x14 with Max Flue and Revolution Syrup Pan,Enhanced Steam Away
    www.leggettmaplesyrup.com

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