+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Bricking a new evaporator

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Manchester Maine
    Posts
    127

    Default Bricking a new evaporator

    I know you use the mortar between the bricks on the edges but do you mortar the back side of the brick that is touching the arch paper ? I am pretty sure you wouldn't but before I do this I want to make sure I do this right
    Backyard sapper

    Mason 2X4 XL with blower
    12x24 post and beam shack
    30 taps on 5-Gallon buckets
    134 taps on tubing into the shack
    15-30 gallons a year for family and friends

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    Canaan Valley, WV
    Posts
    220

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lukie View Post
    I know you use the mortar between the bricks on the edges but do you mortar the back side of the brick that is touching the arch paper ? I am pretty sure you wouldn't but before I do this I want to make sure I do this right
    not necessary. You can insulate the arch better by putting ceramic blanket behind the brick though. Seems to help hold the bricks in place pretty well too when you are bricking it

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Manchester Maine
    Posts
    127

    Default

    Sorry that's what I meant ceramic blanket I called it arch paper I did use the ceramic paper so I guess I wont put any mortar on the back side of the bricks thanks
    Backyard sapper

    Mason 2X4 XL with blower
    12x24 post and beam shack
    30 taps on 5-Gallon buckets
    134 taps on tubing into the shack
    15-30 gallons a year for family and friends

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,566

    Default

    You are calling it paper, how thick is it? If just paper thick you are not insulating it much if any. Most who use ceramic insulation use 1" thick (some might even use thicker, but a barrel stove arch would lose too much combustion chamber space.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Manchester Maine
    Posts
    127

    Default

    Bill Mason who makes the evaporator sold it to me so I think it is the correct stuff and I am using the thick blocks in the fire chamber so I should be all set and thanks for the input when I have time I need to change the barrel stove to Mason 2x4XL
    Backyard sapper

    Mason 2X4 XL with blower
    12x24 post and beam shack
    30 taps on 5-Gallon buckets
    134 taps on tubing into the shack
    15-30 gallons a year for family and friends

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,566

    Default

    OK, Bill Mason will know for sure!
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Northeast Vermont
    Posts
    655

    Default

    i have a bricking question, which i didn't see a reason to start a new thread for. i bricked my evaporator this past weekend. i bricked it all the way up tight to the top rail. that evening i thought, perhaps i should have left a small space under the rail for any expansion going on. if my bricks are tight to the top rail (i could slide them in and out fine, but about a 1/16th of a gap), will it cause any warping or moving of my top rail? i'd assume the brick would probably crack from expanding pressure before the angle iron bends? obviously taking the top course of brick off (it's been mortared) is going to be a PITA, but if it's necessary, i'll do it now while i have time. any opinions?
    Awfully thankful for an understanding wife!

    “The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.”
    - Vincent “Vince” Lombardi

    Good luck to all!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Northfield Ma
    Posts
    69

    Default

    just installed blanket in my 18 X 60" H2O
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Stirling ontario
    Posts
    222

    Default

    you only need brick in your firebox for physical protection of the fire board or blanket.I don't think you need to mortar them.
    I didn't cement or mortar any of my bricks other than a spot here and there so they don't fall out when i move it.It's on castors.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Nashville, MI
    Posts
    942

    Default

    Russ008, Looks really good, So how many fire bricks are you going to have to install on top of that ceramic blanket now?
    2004 - 2012 2x3 flat pan 25 to 60 taps
    2012 2x3 new divided pan w/draw off 55 taps
    2018 - didn't boil surgery - bought new evaporator
    2019 new SML 2x4 raised flue high output evap. 65 taps
    made 17 gal. syrup
    2020 - only put out 53 taps - made 16.25 ga.l syrup
    2021 - Didn't work out
    2022 - 25 taps on bags / 8 taps on 3/16's line - late start

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts