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Thread: Filter press intake tubing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    North Grenville, Ontario
    Posts
    976

    Default Filter press intake tubing

    Just tried out my new to me 7” wesfab filter press
    It has the gear pump on it.
    I used high heat silicone food grade tubing. Bought it at CDL.
    It’s basically just like milk line hose. Not braided. But very flexible.
    It worked good for 20 seconds then the intake hose collapsed from the pump and linked the pipe right off.
    Stopped the pump and tried it again. Same thing.
    Should I be using a more ridged tube for the intake ?
    I am sucking the syrup up maybe 2-3’ from the draw off tank.
    Maybe I’m missing a step. Should I be priming it somehow first ?
    600 taps on vacuum
    Lapierre mechanical Releaser
    CDL electric releaser
    2.5 x 10 CDL Venturi ( new for the 2024 season )
    Home made modulating auto draw off
    Homemade RO 2 x 4" membranes
    CDL 16 x 16 bottler
    Wesfab 7" filter press
    Delaval 73 vacuum pumps

    12 hives of bees

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Essex VT
    Posts
    406

    Default

    Is the intake tube getting stuck on the bottom of the tank? That would cause the problem. I found that in order to stop intake tube getting stuck, cut an aggressive "V" in the bottom of the tube.

    Joe
    2004- 470 taps on gravity and buckets
    2006- 590 taps on gravity and buckets 300 gph RO
    2009- 845 taps on vacuum no buckets, 600 gph RO
    2010- 925 taps on vacuum new 2 stage vacuum pump
    2014- 3045 taps on vacuum, new 1200 gph RO
    2015- 3104 taps on vacuum
    2017- 3213 taps on vacuum
    3' x 10' oil fired evaporator with steamaway

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Rock Creek, NC
    Posts
    5,807

    Default

    I've always used milker hose and never had a problem.
    Russ

    "Red Roof Maples" Where the term "boiling soda" was first introduced to the maple world!

    1930 Ford Model AA Doodlebug tractor
    A couple of Honda 4 wheelers
    Four chainsaws and no chickens!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    North Grenville, Ontario
    Posts
    976

    Default

    Never checked to see if it was stuck to the bottom. I was actually thinking of putting a stainless T on the intake end to hold it down in the syrup. I’ll give that a try. Need to get something for the end of the discharge hose also to hold it on the side of the bottler.
    600 taps on vacuum
    Lapierre mechanical Releaser
    CDL electric releaser
    2.5 x 10 CDL Venturi ( new for the 2024 season )
    Home made modulating auto draw off
    Homemade RO 2 x 4" membranes
    CDL 16 x 16 bottler
    Wesfab 7" filter press
    Delaval 73 vacuum pumps

    12 hives of bees

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,582

    Default

    What diameter did you use. Years ago I had an issue, I had used a 1/2" high temp silicone hose, with about a 8' length, it flattened from the suction but did not fully collapse. I later changed to 1" high temp silicone hose, with no issues. Both had a 3/8" gear pump, I now have an air diaphragm pump which moves the syrup faster if I open the air supply full open, but I run it on medium flow at about 50 PSI.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    North Grenville, Ontario
    Posts
    976

    Default

    Seemed to work a lot better with the stainless T on the end of the suction hose. I used 1” tee with a reducer bushing then a 1/2” barb fitting. The intake tube I have is 1/2” ID silicone tubing.
    I plan on getting a threaded nipple welded in the draw off pot then just hook the intake hose up to that.
    I was looking at electric diaphragm pumps in CDL’s catalogue. It’s a sureflo pump. Says it’s for filter presses but states it’s good up to 170 F kinda weird as the filtering temp is usually higher then that.
    I think I might eventually get an air powered pump. But right now the gear pump will do.
    600 taps on vacuum
    Lapierre mechanical Releaser
    CDL electric releaser
    2.5 x 10 CDL Venturi ( new for the 2024 season )
    Home made modulating auto draw off
    Homemade RO 2 x 4" membranes
    CDL 16 x 16 bottler
    Wesfab 7" filter press
    Delaval 73 vacuum pumps

    12 hives of bees

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,582

    Default

    My air powered diaphragm pump is rated 200F, but I heat my syrup to 205-210F, then draw it off into a SS milk dump station pot (it has a SS nipple out the bottom). I mix in the filter aid then pump it thru the pump and back to the draw off pot to blend it well, then I send it to the filter press. I think by the time it gets to the pump even the first time while blending that it is down to 200 or close to it. I never had an issue. Many others use a diaphragm pump rated for 212 F or more but I've been using the one rated for 200 for 5-6 years.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

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