+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 14 of 14

Thread: Moisture trap

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Center, Underhill Ctr, VT
    Posts
    6,413

    Default

    If anyone is making their own trap, especially if you're pulling higher vacuum levels, it is a good idea to make it so you can open them up enough to be able to remove a stuck ball. They can really get deformed and wedged in the fitting at times.

    Note also that if your moisture trap is in one location, but the pump is in another, and there is some distance between them (especially if they're at different temperatures), you can get condensation in the pipe in between them, so plumb them so liquid can flow into them from both directions in that case.

    Final hint...a check valve between the pump and the moisture trap is a really good idea. Keeps the vacuum in your system from pulling air (or oil) from the pump back into the tubing system.
    Last edited by DrTimPerkins; 09-12-2019 at 07:35 AM.
    Dr. Tim Perkins
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
    http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
    https://mapleresearch.org
    Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,566

    Default

    That reminds me, my last one I made (described above) had a T not an ell out the top. The top of the tee had a screw in plug with thread seal, the side out was back up to the larger diameter going to the vacuum pump.
    While I had that plug so I could push the ball back down if needed, I never had to do it.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Northeast Vermont
    Posts
    655

    Default

    i've always wondered how the ball doesn't get sucked up into the top fittings... however it never has. the bottom 1/3rd of the trap unscrews for such instances. i do have a check valve, however it is between the trap and the releaser... perhaps i ought to move it to the other side? occasionally i get a bit of sap/water in the moisture trap... never more than 1/2 cup worth. i think it's from sucking up ice/ice vapor or my bb4 running 28 " might over powers the releaser form time to time?
    Awfully thankful for an understanding wife!

    “The only place success comes before work is in the dictionary.”
    - Vincent “Vince” Lombardi

    Good luck to all!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Esko,MN
    Posts
    290

    Default

    Thanks tcross for the photo. It certainly helped me to visualize what you are talking about.
    Chad

    2014: 12 taps, 5 gal buckets
    2015: 15 taps on bags
    2016: 150 taps: 100 on bags, 50 on 3/16" natural vac, 2x8 AUF/AOF Homebuilt Arch, 2x8 SL Drop Flu & Auto Draw, SL Propane Canner/Bottler
    2017: 225 taps: Built Lean to, Added SL hood, preheater, concentric exhaust, SL SS 7" SB Filter Press
    2018: 180 taps: Added Shurflo to 50 - 3/16", Auto fill sensor to head tank
    2019: No tapping
    2020: 175 taps
    2021: 300 taps, homemade RO and releaser
    2022: 600+ taps

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts