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Thread: consolidating 3/16 into bigger line

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    WV
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    Default consolidating 3/16 into bigger line

    Currently have some hill sides with 3 - 3/16 runs each (average of 500' and 25 taps on each) The collection tank is up a steep road that's dicey when snow packed. I have the green light to move the tank to the bottom of the road which would be better. Can I run the 3/16 lines into a 5/16 'main line' to get the sap down the hill another 500' or so, or should I use a bigger diameter line? The grade is still pretty significant.
    thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
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    I would go with 1/2 or 3/4 for the run down. Combining the three 3/16 lines into a 5/16 would create a restriction.
    Smoky Lake 2x6 dropflu pans and hoods on homemade arch
    Smoky Lake 6 gallon water jacked bottler
    Concentric Exhaust
    250 Deer Run RO
    325 taps

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
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    10,337

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    I would join them into 1 line, 3/4" or extend all 3 using 3/16 line on each. The 3/16 will work well and likely cost less, your choice. I'd price it out the decide by the cost.
    Dave Klish about 1320 taps in '15, doing fewer each year, about 450 planned for 2020 (and after?)
    2012 Mahindra 36 HP 4x4/ loader/cab/heat/AC:-)
    3x8 raised flue evaporator
    250 GPH converted to electric, RO by Ray Gingerich
    6.32 KW solar system, 1.48KW is battery backed up, all net metered
    http://s1041.photobucket.com/albums/...anssugarhouse/
    website: www.cnymaple.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Peoria, IL
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    598

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    Easiest would be to just extend the 3/16 runs, especially with significant drop. I do consolidate my 3/16 into 3/4 mainline but only because the slope at the end of my runs is too low for 3/16 to work well.
    Camp Wokanda
    Peoria Park District

    2020 - 210 taps 3/16 shurflo, upgraded hp pump on RO - 66 gallons
    2019 - 150 taps 3/16 shurflo, Deer Run 125 dolly RO - 73 gallons
    2018 - 120 taps 3/16 hybrid (shurflo), 2x6 raised flue w/hood, homemade arch w/ AUF & AOF - 34.5 gallons
    2017 - 60 taps 3/16 gravity, oil tank arck w/ steam pans - 12.5 gallons

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Middlesex, Vermont
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    260

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    Quote Originally Posted by mol1jb View Post
    Easiest would be to just extend the 3/16 runs, especially with significant drop. I do consolidate my 3/16 into 3/4 mainline but only because the slope at the end of my runs is too low for 3/16 to work well.
    This is my game plan as I move forward with installing lines in my woods. Have incredible drop for 3/16" to work and then carry everything down to the sugarhouse via 3/4" or 1".
    Mead Maple "It's for the kids..."
    Paul Cerminara
    2019 - First season ever
    -Homemade 275 gallon oil drum arch
    -75 taps, all on traditional buckets and drops into 5 gallon buckets
    -Goal: 3 gallons
    -Season Total: 7.5 gallons - pulled taps after running out of firewood and time
    -Fear: Becoming a member of MT.com and getting bit

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Lawrence County Ohio
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    215

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    I ran out of 3/16 last year, but I did have several rolls of 5/16 so I used a 3/16-5/16-3/16 tee and ran two 3/16's laterals into a 5/16 on 10 laterals. The five 5/16 extensions were only 100' or so to the 3/4 mainline. ( 25-35' elevation drop) I had 150-175 taps in this system, and while they consistently produced 1.75 gpt, I wasn't impressed with how much the sap slowed down at the transition. In my experience, it can be done, but in my opinion, even though 5/16 has more volume than 3/16, it's not optimal. Dr. Tim told me so in a similar post last year, but I am hard headed. I thought the sap would fill the bottom of the 5/16 like it does a 3/4 mainline but it doesn't, it fills the tubing with slugs of sap and bubbles just like 3/16 but with seemingly more resistance. This year I'm taking down the 5/16, taking down the 400' mainline and goin all the way to the tank with 3/16. laterals.
    2012 15 jugs
    2017 125 3/16 -18"x 6' drop flue, home made arch
    2018 240 3/16 12 bags -Deer Run 125 RO
    2019 450 3/16 -converted RO to electric, added a membrane
    2020 600 3/16 -Maple Pro 2x6 Raised Flue, added AOF/AUF



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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    WV
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    101

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bmbmkr View Post
    I ran out of 3/16 last year, but I did have several rolls of 5/16 so I used a 3/16-5/16-3/16 tee and ran two 3/16's laterals into a 5/16 on 10 laterals. The five 5/16 extensions were only 100' or so to the 3/4 mainline. ( 25-35' elevation drop) I had 150-175 taps in this system, and while they consistently produced 1.75 gpt, I wasn't impressed with how much the sap slowed down at the transition. In my experience, it can be done, but in my opinion, even though 5/16 has more volume than 3/16, it's not optimal. Dr. Tim told me so in a similar post last year, but I am hard headed. I thought the sap would fill the bottom of the 5/16 like it does a 3/4 mainline but it doesn't, it fills the tubing with slugs of sap and bubbles just like 3/16 but with seemingly more resistance. This year I'm taking down the 5/16, taking down the 400' mainline and goin all the way to the tank with 3/16. laterals.
    I was just going to ask if adding a 500' extension onto the 3/16" that is already about 700' would create any restrictions? I wouldn't be adding any more taps, but there will end up being about 600' straight shot between the last tap and the tank I want to relocate. (on really good slope still) I crunched the numbers and the price would be about the same for adding 3 - 3/16 extensions or going to 3/4". Working with the 3/16 will certainly be easier I can imagine.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
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    10,337

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    As long aqs it has good slope it will either give you the same performance or better as what you got before. You must realize that the "old" tubing must be clean. If it was not cleaned post season it will not perform as well as it did last season. Old 3/16 tubing gets "debris" from micro-organisms that were present, as that dries or grows nasty, it can plug the tubing and especially the fittings. If the tubing and drops were all new from top to bottom, as long as the fall in elevation is enough and the number of taps is not too many (25 is good) the longer run will not cut the flow. Gravity never breaks on this earth.
    Dave Klish about 1320 taps in '15, doing fewer each year, about 450 planned for 2020 (and after?)
    2012 Mahindra 36 HP 4x4/ loader/cab/heat/AC:-)
    3x8 raised flue evaporator
    250 GPH converted to electric, RO by Ray Gingerich
    6.32 KW solar system, 1.48KW is battery backed up, all net metered
    http://s1041.photobucket.com/albums/...anssugarhouse/
    website: www.cnymaple.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
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    With the price being the same, I would use 3/4 from there to the end. 3/16 does decrease in performance over time and has to be replaced, the 3/4 should be good for a longer time. This will save when you decide you need to replace the 3/16.
    Smoky Lake 2x6 dropflu pans and hoods on homemade arch
    Smoky Lake 6 gallon water jacked bottler
    Concentric Exhaust
    250 Deer Run RO
    325 taps

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Center, Underhill Ctr, VT
    Posts
    4,908

    Default

    As long as you have 3/16" tubing extending at least 35' below the last tap on the slope, it would probably end up about the same (3/4" mainline vs extending 3/16" lines). Either way, the 3/16" line will need to be sanitized in some fashion each year AND/OR all drops and connectors replaced each year or two to maintain high yields.
    Dr. Tim Perkins
    UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
    http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
    https://mapleresearch.org
    Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu

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