+ Reply to Thread
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 30 of 30

Thread: RO question

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Halcomb, New Brunswick, Canada
    Posts
    67

    Default

    This place has a baldor. I think they are American.
    http://www.electricmotorwholesale.com/BALDOR-VL3609T/


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    110 taps,buckets
    Homemade 2 x 3
    1983 ski-doo citation
    2007 Big Bear
    3 young pail dumpers
    http://s732.photobucket.com/albums/ww322/Nemo5_photos/

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Barnet, VT
    Posts
    2,580

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Minnesota Tapper View Post
    Nemo5 thanks for that. I see they have a sealed and also a drip proof motor in the right size. I'm in central mn. Shipping estimator is $100. Which I'd pay for a good motor but I'm a little hesitant. Never heard of princess auto or power fist motors. There must be a reason baldor,marathon,weg,dayton motors dont make a 3hp 1 phase 56c in 1725 rpm. I'll make some calls tomorrow. Thanks!
    I have bought some hydraulic parts from Princess and had no problems.
    William
    950 taps
    3 X 12 Thor pans on a Brian Arch
    CDL 600 expandable

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    72

    Default

    Unfortunately the baldor has a 184t frame. Procon mount fits 56c. I'm going to research the power fist one.
    I'd like to map out my pumps and lines on paper and get a parts list going for fittings etc. I'm going to do 2 membranes in series for now. In the future what could I add to this ro that the 660 would properly handle? If I put a tee after the procon with one side of the tee feeding the 2 membranes I will use now, can I add a line off the right side of the tee in the future? Going to another bank of 1or2 more membranes in series? Or would the pump only be able to keep up with 3 membranes in series? Just want to plumb in hard fittings now for future provisions if I can.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Eagle Mills, NY
    Posts
    20

    Default

    MT, I just finished a second season on a homebuilt very similar to what you're proposing. After talking with the fellas at MES we went with a 3 post pyramid - two in parallel with the combined concentrate feeding #3 in series. I put a Procon 360 on a 2hp 56C. I believe I was told that you cannot get a 56C above 2hp... ? I found that i don't need any more than 2. The 4040 MES membranes I'm running are rated for 120gph with 70 degree water. Cold sap knocks that down a ton so I have at least 33% more pump than I need and then some. I have my motor on a VFD and use it like a throttle. At 40hz I can pull 66% water@ 275psi, with a concentrate flow very near 50gph.(depending on ambient temps) With this setup we can add another post in series using the same equipment. I find that when my membranes are fouling I can recirc raw sap back to my feed tank at about 50psi for ten minutes or so and get a nice rinse and restore performance without having to use permeate. I played with a recirc loop this year and see a use for it when you want to go higher concentration single pass. Like others have stated, however, I think my best efficiency comes when I'm running straight through and getting 1.5-2 gpm permeate regardless of concentrate flow. The number that counts is GPH water removed...

    Like you, the more I learned, the more uncertain I was. Hope this helps.
    Last edited by neil2fish; 04-30-2019 at 08:34 PM.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    72

    Default

    neil2fish I find your comment," the more I learn the more uncertain I am,"so accurate I laughed. Thanks for the rundown of your system. Sounds like a nice balance. I'll remember the tip of flushing with sap for 10 minutes if needed. That's a dang good idea. I agree at least in the u.s. the 56c frame does not go above 2h.p. Bet I spent 4 hours on the web and grainger catalogs etc looking for one. Pretty sure I'm better off in the long run with a strong 2 h.p. Theres only a tiny area at the max gph and max psi on procons flow chart that requiress over 2 h.p. Sounds like I'll be fine anyways without the 3hp. I found some nice quality stainless hi/low shutoff sensors at automationdirect.com. MPS25-1C-P500A and MPS-1C-D60A.
    Can anyone recommend a source for the high pressure hoses? I dont care to use the clear vinyl high pressure water hoses. Dont trust them. I'd prefer stainless braided or something along those lines in the 250 or higher working pressure range. Unless theres a better option I'm not thinking of. Drinking water safe of course. Appreciate all the advice given so far. Enormously helpful!

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Middlesex, Vermont
    Posts
    320

    Default

    MT, not sure if this was covered or not, but has anyone talked about the electrical requirements of a similar unit that you're building? I think this will have a lot of impact on folks depending what they have available in their sugar house. I may end up needing to use my generator to run my RO when the time comes.
    Mead Maple "It's for the kids..."
    Paul Cerminara
    2019 - First season ever
    -Goal: 3 gallons
    -Season Total: 7.5 gallons - pulled taps after running out of firewood and time
    2020
    Built 2'x8' Oil Fired with Thor drop flue pans
    -Goal: 20 gallons
    -Season Total: 55 gallons

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    72

    Default

    Mead Maple electric needs is definitely something to consider. I only have a temporary 110volt extension cord running to my evaporator shed when I'm boiling.i only need power for lights,blower fan and draw off. I plan to use my generator for the r.o. It has a 220 plug at 40amps. Not sure about 1 hp and smaller motors, but 1.5 hp and 2 h.p. motors can typically be wired in 110 or 220 volt. The advantage of wiring in 220 volt is the motor will draw half the amps as it would if it were wired for110 volt. For example, the amp draw of the 2hp motor I am looking at is 20 amps wired in 110 volt and if its wired in 220volt the amp draw goes down to 10-10.8 amps. Same motor,same power output, but wired in 220 volt will draw half the amps.
    Something else to consider. Advice from an electrician (my brother) is to never continuously draw more than 80% of a circuit breakers capacity. So draw a max of 40 amps through a 50 amp breaker. Maybe that's overly cautious but I've always followed that way of thinking.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Barnet, VT
    Posts
    2,580

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Minnesota Tapper View Post
    Mead Maple electric needs is definitely something to consider. I only have a temporary 110volt extension cord running to my evaporator shed when I'm boiling.i only need power for lights,blower fan and draw off. I plan to use my generator for the r.o. It has a 220 plug at 40amps. Not sure about 1 hp and smaller motors, but 1.5 hp and 2 h.p. motors can typically be wired in 110 or 220 volt. The advantage of wiring in 220 volt is the motor will draw half the amps as it would if it were wired for110 volt. For example, the amp draw of the 2hp motor I am looking at is 20 amps wired in 110 volt and if its wired in 220volt the amp draw goes down to 10-10.8 amps. Same motor,same power output, but wired in 220 volt will draw half the amps.
    Something else to consider. Advice from an electrician (my brother) is to never continuously draw more than 80% of a circuit breakers capacity. So draw a max of 40 amps through a 50 amp breaker. Maybe that's overly cautious but I've always followed that way of thinking.
    But you are using the same amount of power. The watts are the same wether it is 110 or 220.
    William
    950 taps
    3 X 12 Thor pans on a Brian Arch
    CDL 600 expandable

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    72

    Default

    Wiam is correct. Sorry about that. I had a moment of stupidity :/

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Middlesex, Vermont
    Posts
    320

    Default

    Yeah just something to keep in mind I'd say. If you have a large sugar house with it's own breaker panel probably not a big deal if you've got ample power to it. As of right now I would just keep the Genny near by to run everything since I'm a few years away from building my permanent sugar house.
    Mead Maple "It's for the kids..."
    Paul Cerminara
    2019 - First season ever
    -Goal: 3 gallons
    -Season Total: 7.5 gallons - pulled taps after running out of firewood and time
    2020
    Built 2'x8' Oil Fired with Thor drop flue pans
    -Goal: 20 gallons
    -Season Total: 55 gallons

+ Reply to Thread
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts