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Thread: Cleaning of lines in the sugar house

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Central New York
    Posts
    74

    Default Cleaning of lines in the sugar house

    I can't find a category for my question so I'll just put it here:

    I've added a lot of food grade tubing/hose in my sugar house this year to move sap and concentrate around. I have a 3/4" milk hose coming in from my bulk tank to the RO, and a smaller line returning to the bulk tank for re circulation of the concentrate. I also have a manifold and more line that I use to divert sap to the feed tank for the evaporator. All of this line is somewhat permanently installed and I don't want to take it all apart (hose clamps, strapping, etc.). I have flushed all the lines with permeate now that the season is over for me. I drained what I could, but there are low spots and areas that still have the permeate in them. Should I leave that in? Should I rinse it out with more water? Should I blow it out with air? Is there was way I should "wash" the milk hoses? I also have several feet of PVC that I pump sap though to my bulk tank. Will flushing that with water be sufficient?

    Thanks for any suggestions!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,688

    Default

    First, i should all be designed so every inch can be cleaned and then drained Low spots harboring any liquid for months is a recipe for problems.
    For cleaning, most can be cleaned using permeate, one that had concentrate should be flushed using an approved sanitizer, then rinsed with permeate and then drained.
    Dave Klish, I recently bought a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Fulton, NY
    Posts
    1,375

    Default

    My plumbing is such that I can feed hot water through everything after the RO, which I do every night. So far so good, but I realize not all sugarhouses can accomodate water heaters and be fed by a well.
    Tim Whitens
    Willow Creek Farm
    Fulton, NY

    3000 on vacuum, 3hp 3ph Busch pump, 2567 Gast
    30X8 Leader oil-fired evap. w/ steamaway
    Airablo 1000 RO
    6 Alpacas

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Central New York
    Posts
    74

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by maple flats View Post
    First, i should all be designed so every inch can be cleaned and then drained Low spots harboring any liquid for months is a recipe for problems.
    For cleaning, most can be cleaned using permeate, one that had concentrate should be flushed using an approved sanitizer, then rinsed with permeate and then drained.
    Would pumping sodium bimetasulfate used in the RO as preservative work?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,688

    Default

    You would be better off running either chlorine or RO soap (mild solution) then rinse with permeate or well water.
    Dave Klish, I recently bought a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

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