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Thread: Depth gauge for tap holes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    Volney, NY
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    275

    Default Depth gauge for tap holes

    A convenient depth gauge for maple drill bits is a piece of tubing. It holds up better than electrical tape.Photo on 3-27-19 at 7.33 PM.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Essex VT
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    406

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    The plastic will eventually wear down and change the depth that you are drilling. I bought a round metal drill bit stop fifteen years ago and am still using it. Once the set screws and depth are adjusted on the drill stop, it never moves. It cost me $4.50 at a tool shop.

    Joe
    2004- 470 taps on gravity and buckets
    2006- 590 taps on gravity and buckets 300 gph RO
    2009- 845 taps on vacuum no buckets, 600 gph RO
    2010- 925 taps on vacuum new 2 stage vacuum pump
    2014- 3045 taps on vacuum, new 1200 gph RO
    2015- 3104 taps on vacuum
    2017- 3213 taps on vacuum
    3' x 10' oil fired evaporator with steamaway

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Westfield, NY
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    245

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeJ View Post
    The plastic will eventually wear down and change the depth that you are drilling. I bought a round metal drill bit stop fifteen years ago and am still using it. Once the set screws and depth are adjusted on the drill stop, it never moves. It cost me $4.50 at a tool shop.

    Joe
    A drill stop is the way to go. I have one one the bit I use and my back up bit as well.
    backyard hobbyist
    Mason 2x3 w/AUF
    2020 - added small vacuum and gravity 5/16 tubing and sap sacks
    N 42* 18' 31."
    W 79* 34' 15."
    https://www.saptapapps.com/map/31868...-aab748a6394e/

  4. #4
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    Feb 2013
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    Volney, NY
    Posts
    275

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    [QUOTE=JoeJ;369176]The plastic will eventually wear down and change the depth that you are drilling. I bought a round metal drill bit stop fifteen years ago and am still using it. Once the set screws and depth are adjusted on the drill stop, it never moves. It cost me $4.50 at a tool shop.

    The change in depth you describe is 1/100 of an inch for every 600 holes drilled which won't harm the tree compared to using 7/16's taps. And my plastic depth stop cost .0003¢ Screen Shot 2019-03-29 at 10.51.04 AM.jpg
    Last edited by Daveg; 03-29-2019 at 09:54 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Boston Metro West MA
    Posts
    165

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    Quote Originally Posted by JoeJ View Post
    The plastic will eventually wear down and change the depth that you are drilling. I bought a round metal drill bit stop fifteen years ago and am still using it. Once the set screws and depth are adjusted on the drill stop, it never moves. It cost me $4.50 at a tool shop.

    Joe
    I had no idea there was such a thing. Sounds better than the tap I use for this, and other purposes.
    ~Janet

    2019 - 6th year sugarin'. 2nd year using propane. 13 taps. Just over 3/4 gal syrup. Light in color and flavor.
    Intent to build a new barrel evaporator with my son this summer. Still don't weld. We'll see how it goes.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Harvard, MA
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    240

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    I like this approach using either tubing or a metal drill stop. When I tried it this season I noticed I needed to adjust depending on the bark of each tree, smooth and then depth or gnarly and thicker on older bigger trees. How do you all adjust for that?
    2022 is season 7
    2016: 20 taps on buckets, 4 gallons on a borrowed 2x3.
    2017: 32 taps on buckets, 8 gallons of syrup, on a "loaner" Lapierre 19x48.
    2018: 80 taps. First time tubing. New 10x12 sugar shack, Lapierre 2x5. Made 17 gallons
    2019: 100 taps. 22 gallons. Added a small RO 50 gph.
    2020: 145 taps, 30 gallons, sold half. Murphy cup is a great addition.
    2021: tapped Feb 23, 150 taps, 35 gallons.
    2022: 200 taps. I lost 50, added 100. Having fun but short season?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Alaska (East Central Minnesota For Sugaring)
    Posts
    302

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    Quote Originally Posted by tgormley358 View Post
    I like this approach using either tubing or a metal drill stop. When I tried it this season I noticed I needed to adjust depending on the bark of each tree, smooth and then depth or gnarly and thicker on older bigger trees. How do you all adjust for that?
    I knock the thickest bark off with the claws of my hammer, not enough to hit live wood, of course.

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