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Thread: Series Loop preheater

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
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    11,566

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    Just build a shallow funnel to be suspended under the stack and make it about 2" larger in diameter than the stack, then channel the condensation over to the gutter on the hood and then out to a bucket for use to help clean up.
    I think you are now on the right track.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    17

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    I'm tracking on that idea. I'll have to see if I have some sheet aluminum kicking around. I have some extra of the aluminum I'm using for the Vs. Once I build the funnel I could use a piece of that to channel the water to my hoods drip channel or the drip tray below the preheater. Ideas are percolating.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,566

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    I really like how you work. Some people get bull headed and want to 'prove" their idea rather than listen to those who have done it in the past. You will do well.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,566

    Default

    While there is more than one correct way, it's good to look at many ideas, most of which will work and choose what is best for your situation.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Potter County, PA
    Posts
    815

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    For vent on the preheater, i put a tee on the highest point with a 1" copper pipe going straight up 1' higher than the top of my head tank. I then set a 1 1/4 cap on top of it. This eliminates the need to check a valve periodically. The large size pipe will allow ample space for the air to pass out of the sap. ( too small of a pipe will give you a nice hot sap shower ) I also have just a drip pan under the preheater . This collects the preheater condensation and the stack condensation.
    2008 4 buckets
    ~
    2016 1300 vac tubing
    18x24 sugar shack
    2x6 Grimm Lightning w/preheater on natural gas
    7" full bank press
    CDL 600 RO
    2000 Sonoma w/ 200gal tank
    2003 Duramax w/ 500 gal tank
    2 sap guzzling kids
    very patient wife!

    Same ol' addiction

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    17

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    p1.jpgp2.jpgp3.jpgp4.jpgp5.jpg


    Some photos of the progress. it is current sitting back on the evaporator. Supply lines are reconnected. Just my bypass is left to hook up. I'm actually thinking that I will hook a hose to it and leave on the wall. I have a T and a 2 valves coming from the tank. One is for the feed to the preheater, the other set I was going to have the hose long enough to reach the float box for an emergency bypass so that way I did have sap sitting in a line for no reason. my second though is put a second valve where it would tie into the float box so sap wouldn't reverse fill that line. Tomorrow I will cross that bridge with decisions to be made before I fill it up to check my levels in the pans and give it a test boil. Fingers crossed it all goes to plan. I can see adding a door in my future to the hood as well as a partition between front and rear pans within the hood. For those who may wonder yes it is lead free solder and flux, anything being used to fasten it either a copper bracket or stainless steel nut bolt and washer. Also drip trays are aluminum 1/16"x 1" channel with ss self tapping screws to fasten together for now. May have welded later in the year. After the test boil I will be buttoning up and sealing my hood where the old pipes originally exited and the new ones do now to help with its performance.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Albion PA
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    5,099

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    Looks pretty good! You did a bunch of work on it! Vent the high end and put a drain at the low end. You will want to drain it at some point. Drip V's look like they should work.
    Regards,
    Chris
    Casbohm Maple and Honey
    625 roadside taps + Neighbors bring some sap too!
    3x10 King, WRU, AOF and AUF
    12" SIRO Filter Press.
    2015 Ford F250 PSD sap hauler
    One Golden named Maggie, Norwegian Forest Cat named Lucy
    Too many Cub Cadets
    Ford Jubilee and several Allis WD's, and IH tractors
    1932 Ford AAB ton and a half, dump truck

    www.mapleandhoney.com

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Peru, Maine
    Posts
    1,058

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    That looks darn good. Not to hijack a thread but how far below then stack are you guys putting a drip pan? We don’t have a preheater but need to deal with the condensation from the stack. I imagine you want it below a ways so you can still get good draft up the stack.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    17

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    hood1.jpghood2.jpghood3.jpghood4.jpghood5.jpg

    So I put a few more pictures up for those interested in looking. Tomorrow is a test boil day after I adjust my feed tank height. I realized it is currently level with the upper manifold of the preheater as I went to get water. Kinda of a bummer but I have some 10x10s I can use to space up my feed tank.

    I think I have 3 more hood mods to come. I am going to fashion up a partial partition to separate flue pan from front pan. My thought is it would still allow steam to vent but keep the steam around the preheater more concentrated. The second mod is to fashion a damper for the steam flue. My third and final hood mod will be the condensation tray for the steam flue which will probably happen after the season is finished. Unless I get board......

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,566

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    That looks a lot better. I hope you put a coin vent at the high point under the hood, even an icemaker self piercing valve just before the down turn as that pipe exits the hood if you find it air locks.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

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