Dr. Tim Perkins
UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
https://mapleresearch.org
Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu
I have a cdl 600 and have the same problem. I also put a bleeder valve before the feed pump and doesn't seem to make much difference. Somedays the high pressure pump will stay on the first time I push the button and other times it will take a half dozen times to get it to stay on, very frustrating to say the least. Often times I will let the feed pump run for a few minutes before turning on the high pressure pump or open or close the concentrate or pressure valves seems to help as well.
The only time I have had much issue is with ice in the tank or feed line (1.5"), or if the feed pump pre-filter screen was clogged,or if there is not much sap in the tank. I do have a Y plumbed in prior to the RO to a drain so that I can bleed any air out of the line prior to starting the ro. The bleeder on the feed pump pre-filter is also very useful but being able to let the feed-line run wide open to the drain briefly really seems to help. Air lock seems pretty easy to do with these machines.
I actually ran my ro fo r2 seasons with a 1/4" feed line and with the tank outlets lower than the ro feed and it worked fine as long as the tanks were mostly full when starting the ro.
When you say the ro and tanks are level. How do you mean? Are the outlets level with the ro input? How long of a run of pipe and how many bends?
About 750 taps on High Vac.
2.5 x 8 Intens-O-Fire
Airtech 3 hp LR Pump
Springtech Elite 500 RO
14 x 24 Timber Frame SugarHouse
16 x 22 Sap Shed w/ 1500 gal. + 700 gal. tanks
www.littlehogbackfarm.com
Yeah squirrels........
Sorry about hijacking the thread just bored
The sap tank is level with the ro. There is about 6 feet of pipe with one elbow. I dont thing flow is an issue.
I had, Ran and swore at one for 4 seasons. Always had issues with the start up, Finally found put in bleeder (I did a 1/2" tee and ball valve) Bleed a 5 gallon pail worth of sap thru the bleeder before trying start up. Once pump starts push the air bleed on the filter housing in until you get squirted. Should be good to go, also would not pull prime and go with dirty filters. It could be running great, turn it off and couldn't get it going again. Like when switching from concentrate to rinse.
It was finicky, but once I figured it out really did love the work it did. Only switch to a Lapierre because we needed a bigger machine.
54 Acres bought in Sept 2010, hope for a lot of fun
Kabota 3400 w/ bucket
couple Husky chainsaws and a couple of Stihl
Big dream
2011 = 106 on gravity tubing, 100 bucket
2012 =700 vaccuum 100 gravity 80 bucket's
30" x 12' Vortex with Leader Revolution Max Raised pans
2013 = 1200 vac, 200 gravity, 5 buckets, buying from 300 buckets, 500 vac
Springtech RO 600 Deluxe
2015= 1800 all vac @ home, buying sap from 1200.
2017= 2200 all on vac. no longer buying sap
I’ve had two different RO’s now and both of them gave me the same problem, air in the line between the sap or permate tank and the RO. I finally figured out that on both of my RO’s I had a built in wash tank, so I put a couple of gallons of sap or water in the wash tank and then used the 3 way valve (right before the feed pump) partially opened to the sap tank and partially opened to the wash tank. This allowed the air in the line to go out the wash tank and fill back up with sap or water. Works pretty well me.
2x8 Leader Inferno with Max Flue/Revolution for 2012
12x28 Sugarshack
132 Taps 09'
183 Taps 10'
200+ Taps 11'
525 Taps High Vacuum 2013
www.hhsugarbush.com
Mine is only a 250 but I had similar issues until I added a 1 HP electric booster SS pump ahead of the RO. It is self priming, as long as I fill the housing. To start now, I start that SS pump and watch the first pressure gauge (at the pre-filter). When that reads 50PSI or more I then turn on the RO. Problems gone. Once running I sometimes shut off that extra feed pump, sometimes I leave it running. My feed line from my sap tanks is 1.5" and it reduces to 1" about 2' before the extra feed pump. From there it is 1".
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
Have run 600 elite for years......I usually open petcock on Top of strainer unit until I don't hear any air bubbles. But sometimes it does kick off a few times and I believe this is from small air bubbles caught in the feed line that don't get drawn out from gravity bleeding alone but when you fire pump up it sucks those in and trips since it likely create more suction than bleeding alone, my thoughts anyways.
Sometimes I will turn the unit back off before the pressure pump kicks and re bleed, then turn it back on.
They are pretty rugged machine, and certainly they kick off before that air bubble reaches the pump. I've worried for years but try to remind myself these are not you run of the mill pumps, they are heavy duty and built to last. Although I still do hate to see the feed pressure gauge fall down before going back up!!
Last edited by blissville maples; 02-27-2019 at 07:31 PM.
18x30 sugarshack
5100 taps high vac
3x10 inferno with steampan
7'' wes fab filter press
10'' cdl air filter press
D&G 3 post reverse osmosis w/recirculation