Mason 2x3 or 2x3XL

[wkies]

Thanks for all the great insight. I'm think I'm going to go with the XL for sure.

[RedMapleCreek]

eustis22,

Mine is an older version of the 2x3XL which does not have the extended arch under the preheater. My preheater hangs off the back of the pan and only gets radiant heat from the stack elbow, so it is not very effective. It looks like the new preheater would heat a lot more effectively, but would contain several gallons of sap that will not flow into the evaporator. How do you deal with that?

You requested to see how mine was bricked so pictures are attached.

[eustis22]

I do not understand this question: "It looks like the new preheater would heat a lot more effectively, but would contain several gallons of sap that will not flow into the evaporator. How do you deal with that?"

I asked for the bricking because 8 GPH without a blower is very near the 10 GPH I get WITH a blower. If I didn't have the blower I think my rate would be well below 8 GPH and, outside of the location of the preheater pan, the bricking is the only variable I can think of. I will try to get a pic of my bricking if I can. I do note that you have a cavity behind your wall where I have bricked up to the bottom of the smoke hole. How's the back of your pan during boiling?

I also use a turkey fryer to heat my sap to pretty near boiling before dumping in the preheater. But last season (first w/the XL) I had the sap in the preheater in a roiling boil a few times.

[RedMapleCreek]

The back of my pan boils well, really no difference front to back. When I bought the evaporator Bill told me to locate the wall just behind the grate and leave the void space beyond it.

Another thing that could be affecting your boil rate is your wood and how often you fire it. I use very dry hemlock split no larger than wrist size and I fire it about every 6 minutes. Also, the depth that you run in the evaporator can affect the rate, I run between 3/4" and 1" deep to get a maximum boil rate.

To clarify my earlier question, the picture of your preheater shows a valve on the side near the bottom, which I assume is to drain the sap that would remain below the ball valves which normally feed the evaporator pan. My question is when you no longer have enough sap in your preheater to flow into the evaporator what do you do? I assume you could drain the preheater using that lower valve and then dump that into the evaporator, but continuing to fire the evaporator with nothing in the preheater (which in your case is directly over the fire) could warp it. Or do you just save the sap remaining in the bottom of the preheater until your next boil? In any case, your preheater is obviously a lot better at preheating than mine, since yours gets direct fire. I feed cold sap directly into my preheater and I think the sap probably gets warmed more by trickling down the feed pipe from the preheater than it actually does in my nonfired preheater.

[tombaisley]

I let the fire die down some and drain the preheater down to 1/2" or so and quickly add a pail of water then I add the preheater sap to the pan for a final rolling boil before shutting down

[sg5054]

RMC , I would suggest at least 1more row behind the “wall” . You want the flame to be in contact with the pan bottom as long as possible.I got a 2x3 Mason about 6 years ago. I built the arch starting right behind the grate. Filled the space with bricks to within a 3-4 inches of the pan bottom to within a bricks width of the outlet, full width. By filling all that space the flame/heat is forced up against the pan. Also by filling that space it creates all that thermal mass.
After a year I had Smokey lake build custom drop flue 3 section pan. Absolutely no regrets. I can have a boil started in 15 - 20 minutes. The bricks were raised to about 1-2 inches of the flues.
Pan runs extremely well. I’ll get picture up of the bricks in a few days.

[eustis22]

> My question is when you no longer have enough sap in your preheater to flow into the evaporator what do you do? I assume you could drain the preheater using that lower valve and then dump that into the evaporator, but continuing to fire the evaporator with nothing in the preheater (which in your case is directly over the fire) could warp it. Or do you just save the sap remaining in the bottom of the preheater until your next boil?

Oh I never empty my preheater during the boil. I empty it before I start the next one. Basically the last bucket I draw from the tank is used to maintain the level of sap in the preheater as I go thru shutdown. Figure 2 gallons in my turkey pot plus whats in the preheater gets me thru the post firing evaporation. I'll shut the preheater tap a few hours afterwards. Sometimes the pan level gets a little higher than the level I am comfortable boiling at (I think I maintain about 1.25" depth as I am paranoid about scorching my pan. Your lesser depth would explain the greater boil rate but i am not There yet

Yes, the side valve is to drain the preheater before the next time I start. I like to pour hot sap into the preheater when I start the next boil vs dribble cold sap into a new boil. I am still learning this pans nitering habits though as I probably still go too long between cleanings during the season. I do alternate the feed tube though.

[judgejp]

I'd ask about his raised flue pans(not advertised). double the boiling output for the same footprint.
Mine does 25 gph after first half hour boiling.
Pat

[Dirty Birch]

I bought the the 2 x 3 XL with blower last fall from Bill. I'm running late as usual and was just tonight dry fitting the brick. Mine is a different shape than yours RedMaple. I have some pictures of the arch paper kit installed. I hope to install the brick this weekend. The pictures of the brick I'm just making sure I bought enough. They aren't laid out properly.

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[UB29]

Recommend you chamfer the top row of bricks with a 45 degree cut. to allow the flames to reach the outer edges of your pan. Did that when bricking my 2x4 XL, and I get great boiling right to the edges all the way around.