Again, thanks for the helpful replies.
I am looking forward to finishing this thing
Again, thanks for the helpful replies.
I am looking forward to finishing this thing
Blocking that front 6" is to minimize much of the air from just going around the wood and up around the fire.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
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I connected my squirrel cage blower directly to the back of the arch, similar to the way Raptor did. I did not build a airgate, instead I connected my fan to a rheostat and govern fan speed and CFM by electricity. I also ran my air under the grates, but also plumbed two square tubes from the blower up into the top of the firebox to create retrograde turbulence. This turbulence allows be to theoretically increase the ignition of unburned fuel gases instead of having a unidirectional air flow from the AUF through to the smokestack. I seem to get a clean burn and can achieve fantastic boiling rates. IMG_9431.jpg
The air on the top may help? Not sure. They might work better pointed at the center of your flame/ fire ball??? Also I would keep a eye on how your grates hold the fire (coals)? The gaps look a little wide. After boiling for several hours you may have a abundance of coals in the ash pit? Maybe I just dont have the scale / view right. Too hot down there could be a problem for your blower? May work fine? Let us know.
Good luck with your season.
Regards,
Chris
Casbohm Maple and Honey
625 roadside taps + Neighbors bring some sap too!
3x10 King, WRU, AOF and AUF
12" SIRO Filter Press.
2015 Ford F250 PSD sap hauler
One Golden named Maggie, Norwegian Forest Cat named Lucy
Too many Cub Cadets
Ford Jubilee and several Allis WD's, and IH tractors
1932 Ford AAB ton and a half, dump truck
www.mapleandhoney.com
Chris,
I've boiled on this arch for 2 seasons now. I empty the ash pit about every 8 hours of boiling. I use fire brick to help deflect airflow up through the grates. I do not have an issue with the ash being to close to the blower, the ash is so completely burned that its light and fluffy and the airflow keeps it well away from the blower. In my opinion, this set up is a dream. I actually have to throttle back my air with my rheostat so I am not loosing heat up my stack.
The SmokyLake pan is a piece of art. I couldn't be happier.
Aaron
ACollette,
I went back and forth on this and settled on essentially the same thins you sent in a pic
I drilled holes in the firewall at the back, welded 4 bolts to the inside of the firewall and can mount the blower.
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Test fit. The final installation will have washers and lock washers
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Super.
Just one question, what are you using to fill the gap between the flat plate and the 1/4" verticals?
Not sure about your blower so maybe should keep quiet but, nah! The blower that came with my corsair arch is bolted directly to the back of the fire box below the grate. My thought is that it doesn't over heat because of the constant air movement and its lower than the fire, heat moves up. There is no need for firebrick in that area as the brick protects your insulation from wood being loaded. I don't have ash or coals build up in that area, the ash box, as it gets blown up onto the ramp or out the stack. This year I'll be more proactive about cleaning the ash off the ramp as towards the end of last year it was raining ash. Hope this helps, Ted
My apologies, i was responding to the last post on the first page. Not sure how i missed an entire page but there it is. Ted