I’m getting mixed distances from combustibles around the smoke stack of my evaporator? My roof joists are 24 inch centers I have a 10 inch smoke stack. And the distances between steam stacks and the joists if there is any?
I’m getting mixed distances from combustibles around the smoke stack of my evaporator? My roof joists are 24 inch centers I have a 10 inch smoke stack. And the distances between steam stacks and the joists if there is any?
2019:250 gallons
2020:324 gallons
2021:?
The steam stacks can even touch the lumber. The smoke stack if single wall needs to be protected. Mine is single wall, initially I just made my own triple wall pipe. At that time my stack was 8" on a 2x6. I made an 11" that went over the stack and had 1.5" sheet metal homemade stand offs to hold it at 1.5" from the stack. Then I made another layer 14" diameter and repeated. I left the tops and bottom of my added stack open. That worked well. I had it start 2' below the bottom cord of the trusses and it was up to within 1" of the steel roofing and cut to have the top uniformly about 1" below the steel roofing.
My trusses are 24" too, but for just the one where the stack is I moved that truss so one is 30" opening and the next one is 16" and then the rest are at 24" center to center.
My current smoke stack I changed my method. For that I bought a roll of ceramic insulation 2" thick. Then I made an outer cover out of galvanized sheet metal to protect the insulation. At the bottom I cut about 1.75" slits in that cover and bent them inward. Each was 1" wide. That way the insulation could not slide out the bottom. I then suspended that cover from the rafters to hold it up. Either method worked well, the second just looks better.
The formula for distance from the stack that is run as hot as an evaporator runs is to have 36" clearance. Then every layer of metal spaced at least 1" from the stack or the previous layer cuts the necessary clearance in half. Thus 1 gives 18" needed, 2 gives 9" needed and 3 would give 4.5" if you need to go that far. My old one was 2 layers and it gave me the necessary space. Either will be just as safe. The ceramic blanket was quite pricey. But 1.5" was enough to keep the outside from getting hot to the touch, it only gets to maybe 100 degrees, under 300 is safe. Over 300 slowly drives wood gases from the lumber and after long enough it will actually get to where 300 degrees will ignite it.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
I built my own triple wall also, but ran it right through the roof and into the flashing, which is perforated under the storm collar. I was curious to know how well this would work, so I put one of those magnetic chimney thermometers on the outermost stack. When my flue is running at 800 or 900 degrees, the outer layer never reaches 80 degrees...even when it's way too hot in the sugarhouse.
1" of ceramic insulation may be OK, but not if you stuff it in. You want to wrap it around the inner stack and then put the outer one on. That might be real hard to get. If you look at many class A chimneys they use 1" of ceramic insulation and that rates good for 2" clearance to the wood. If you stuff the insulation in you will compress the insulation, the non compressed air between the fibers is what insulates, if compressed the insulation factor drops significantly. The ceramic fibers are needed to hold up to the heat closer to the inner stack.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
So I got the stacks in had to box truss on the smoke stack to give me clearance to insure that this resurrected old sugar shanty doesn’t burn down. It’s about a mile of the road so the fire trucks wouldn’t make it. I still have to make a double wall pipe at the roof but glad I got my stacks up! This is what I did.56C7CEC5-D01C-49C0-916B-5715FA242F61.jpg
2019:250 gallons
2020:324 gallons
2021:?
I did the ceramic insulation outside of a 8" stove pipe then put a 10" steel duct pipe around it. It's not easy but about 1/4 the price of double wall pipe and the same result. Just make sure that you cut the insulation long enough.
Matt,
Minehart Gap Maple
The rafter spacing (boxing) looks good. Do you have a roof jack? Doesn't look like it from the picture? You double wall needs to go through the roof or up into a roof jack to extend the distanse for any combustables. like the plywood or shingles. I almost burnt our sugarhouse down due to excessive stack temps getting this wood to catch on fire. I was lucky I had water available.
Regards,
Chris
Casbohm Maple and Honey
625 roadside taps + Neighbors bring some sap too!
3x10 King, WRU, AOF and AUF
12" SIRO Filter Press.
2015 Ford F250 PSD sap hauler
One Golden named Maggie, Norwegian Forest Cat named Lucy
Too many Cub Cadets
Ford Jubilee and several Allis WD's, and IH tractors
1932 Ford AAB ton and a half, dump truck
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