Moving to Continuous Flow

[HondoLane]

Ok. I’m all in on the float box. Next question is.... build or buy a float box??

[maple flats]

Buy or build, your choice. However a float box works far better if it has 2 chambers (put a divider in with a small hole down low to equalize the chambers and have the float in the one that is separated from the incoming sap flow. That way the float gives a steadier control of the level. For the hole, it could either be a 3/4" hole or one corner open to give up to about that much open area to keep both chambers close to equal. If you do it with just 1 chamber the float jumps more and is thus less accurate.

[HondoLane]

What is a good size for a float box? I ordered a 2x4 divided pan. I was thinking 12" x 5" x 5". I will have leftover mirror stainless from my arch build. Was planning on using a flask as a float like some others have done. I can put in a divider to isolate the float from the inlet. I plan on running my pan at 2" deep.

[maple flats]

2" deep to learn how it works is fine, but then gradually reduce the depth until you are boiling either 1.25 or 1" deep. The boil will be harder and the flow in the pan will be steadier. Then when you draw off, open the draw off valve only slightly for a longer draw and less surging in the pan.
I used to try to see how long I could sustain a draw. On a 2x3 I think the best was about 15-17 minutes. When I moved up to a 2x6 I got a few draws of almost but not quite an hour. I think 20-30 minutes was more common. The point is, try to match the draw to the boil as best you can.

[HondoLane]

Is there a shutoff valve between the float box and pan? I am putting a sight glass onto my float box and wanted to drain float box at night and in between boils.

[Sugarmaker]

Hondo,
May not have read all the posts.
But yes you can put a shut off between the pan and float box. No real rules here. Makes sense if your going to drain it. Just remember to open it each boil. Burning up a pan due to a closed valve is not a good thing! Also most float boxes are open on the top and viewing the sap level is pretty straight forward with out a sight glass.
Just my 2 cents.
Have fun with the new equipment!
Regards,
Chris

[HondoLane]

Ok. Season u see way. I have a few questions. I boiled about 45 gallons in my 2x4 divided pan running at 1” deep. I definitely have a distinct gradient formed.

My thermometer is the 0-7 style. I calibrated it to boiling water at the beginning of the season. I know with pressure and my altitude the boiling point of water changes. How come my gauge is noticeably below the 0 when it’s boiling. The. At times it shoots up halfway (214-215) mark the back down to 0. I never seem to get a steady temp.

After 45 gallons running this rig at 1” deep. How soon can I expect my first draw?

[maple flats]

Did you calibrate it at a hard boil or just as it started to have bubbles rising. You should actually set it each boil, not just at the start of the season, the barometer is quite fluid, it often changes even during the day. For that reason I recently got a "boil meter" that gives the exact reading whenever I push the button, likely too pricy for a smaller operation. I've been at this for over 20 years, but only the last 16 have been commercial and it took me until now to buy one.
The other option is to use the thermometer as you have it and adjust the density as you get ready to bottle. I did it that way for years. My last 3 years I sort of adapted a little, once I got an auto draw, I set it for what I thought was right for draw off temp. then I checked the density during a draw using my test cup and hydrometer. I then adjusted the draw setting up or down as indicated by the results. That should also work if your draws are big enough to fill a hydrometer test cup. Best to use a thermometer in that cup to get a temperature reading just before taking the hydrometer reading and refer to the temperature chart in the North American Maple Syrup Producer's Manual to see what the density shold be at that exact temperature.

[HondoLane]

I tested it with a hard boil but on the stove in the house and not during a test boil once my rig was setup. Do you think my fluctuations will have to do with how far down in the sweet the probe is? The Badgerland (Smokey Lake) pan that I am using is supposed to be run at 2" as per the paperwork with the pan. I am running it at 1" The probe's last 1/2" is only in the sweet.

[Woody77]

I have smokey lake stuff (badger land) run at 2" like it says . I tried shallow and it ran worse. The draws are more consistent and tend to be a bit bigger witch helps in the filtering as it stays hot longer and goes through the filter better. As for the thermometer mine was acting up too when shallow.