For SS fittings you may need to both heat just the end with boiling water and shave the end of the hose on the inside to get a tapered start. Only heat the part that needs to go over the fitting, going more than an extra 1/2" can cause issues, in fact I go just 1/4" extra. Once started use a block of 2x4 to hammer it in while you hold the hose just back from the heated part.
A few years ago, I had some PVC adapters turned down on a lathe with a slight taper. Removed all of the barbs but then left a rough surface. Then I could push them in half way and had to hammer them the rest of the way with a mallet. But that was PVC not the SS barbed fittings. My biggest tubing onto SS barbed fittings was 1.5". For that I just shaved a taper on the end of the tubing and then used my mainline fitting tool to pull it in. I do not have a 2" tool or I'd let you borrow it. I do the tapered shave just with a sharp knife.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.