when you get the tank home, remove that valve and get close up pics of the threads. A ball valve is asking for trouble. Most milk tank valves are called a butterfly valve. They are costly, but the valves from Brewer's hardware are similat to milk tank valves and will not burst when they freeze. The ball valves burst if closed with sap filling the ball, when it freezes the ice has no place to expand and that bursts the valve. If you don't want to do9 it by getting a proper valve you can protect the ball valve by adding a second ball valve. Then when done pumping, close the first valve and open the second on and empty the line. Then close the second one and open the first. That way the second valve has no water in the ball and the first one is full open and thus neither one will burst.. The first one is the one closest to the tank.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.