In my mind I wanted a preheater so I don't have to run a turkey fryer to preheat and I've seen commercially made evaporators with a similar setup so I'm trying to utilize my specific setup to maximize my efforts...
In my mind I wanted a preheater so I don't have to run a turkey fryer to preheat and I've seen commercially made evaporators with a similar setup so I'm trying to utilize my specific setup to maximize my efforts...
Looks good except the preheater may get too hot (and boil super hard in the preheater pan), if it does, weld a top on that part.
What is the size of the arched portion where you propose putting a 2" wide by long rectangular stack? If it is at least 4-5" front to back, just take an 8" stack and make it oval on the lower end, then reduce it to 6 if you want, but I think you would do better if you have an 8" stack. If you reduce it to 6" it will be easy to change to 8" later. A firebox 28" wide will want more than a 6" stack to get maximum performance. If you are going with natural draft, make an adjustable air inlet at least 5" x 10" and when you get boiling adjust for best performance. The shape of that back rounded portion will draw well from the whole width, you do not need the stack to also spread that wide.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
I have a piece of steel (6"by 24")for preheater area if it gets too hot
If it runs to hot run it deep, if the back gets that hot then the front should be ripping.
I hear ya,
Everything I've done so far with maple syrup has been a trial by mistake
Hoped by asking this original question that someone has done what I'm about to do and I could learn from there experience before I cut my tank.
My original reason for making it 12 inch by 2 inch rectangular is so that I could just text Gru a stove pipe boot that is already pre-made on to my original reason for making it 12 inch by 2 in rectangular is so that I could just screw a stove pipe boot that is already pre made on to what I fabric a onto my oil tank evaporator
Secondly because stove pipe is very thin gauge metal in my oil tank is pretty thick gauge steel and my transition point is easiest done by me welding what I already have into tank and then buying a 12 inch by 2 inch Buy 6in Round stove pipe that I already have ran 14 feet up through the roof...
That's pretty difficult to follow but talk-to-text will do that...
Having 14 ft of pipe will give you some real nice natural draft. I say hit PRINT.
Yes it does draft awesome(14') stack pipe
Used last 2 years to evaporate with my 55 gallon barrel stove evaporator, so this is my upgrade to that original I started with that's in my avatar picture...
Thanks for your guys thoughts on this ( but I'm not sure it has helped me make a decision on size of exhaust to cut in top of oil tank)
The 12 x 2 opening is too small. That is less area than a 6 inch round stack. I would go with a large enough opening to equal an 8 inch stack even if you stick with 6 inch. You may have to add onto the back for this.
Smoky Lake 2x6 dropflu pans and hoods on homemade arch
Smoky Lake 6 gallon water jacked bottler
Concentric Exhaust
250 Deer Run RO
325 taps
You referenced wanting to get ready made components and said you wanted to use a 2x12 and a 2x12 to 6" round, both of those will only be 28 ga sheet metal, do not use them for your stack. It would likely burn thru in less than 1 season. Those pipes, stack and fittings are made for forced air heat, not for a class A chimney or even one for a gas vent. For your stack you must use at a minimum 24 ga and if you buy stack from a maple manufacturer galv. stack will be either 20 or 22 ga. If you buy locally go to a sheet metal shop and have it made in 22 ga. If you go with SS it can be 24 ga but while SS will last far longer, it will cost big bucks. A 22 ga. galvanized stack will last 6-8 years, especially if you keep it dry in the off season. If you don't have a cap to put on or close, just use a bucket or if it will fit, use a #10 can after the season to keep rain out (I think if you have a 6" stack a #10 can may slide over it). Even a plastic pail will hold up to UV enough to last 1 year, some may not last 2.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
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