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Thread: Going way over draw temp

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Barnet, VT
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    2,375

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    When I had a 2x6 boiling around 16% I would get a big draw at first and then could usually run a small pencil sized stream. But I always ran a second thermometer probe where the syrup entered the front pan. This lets you know what is on the way and you can adjust your draw valve to compensate.
    William
    900 taps plus 1400 purchased sap
    3 X 12 Thor pans on a Brian design arch
    1986 Seprotech 900 RO

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Jacksonport Wisc
    Posts
    5,086

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    Great information and it is enlightening to see that at times I was making the wrong assumptions and working off bad information. Waim I had a dial thermometer in my center pan first channel and I treated it more like a novelty and didn't take the time to calibrate it and use the information. Then as I concentrated higher and saw the dark color in the transfer float box i knew why I was having control problems.

    Then when I tried to compensate that is when the real problems started. I started to overcompensate and started a SEE SAW effect I would over draw and then that would lead to over cooking. Then I would do a panic draw off and an emergency shut down followed by a holding down of the float. Now my flue pan has never given me any problems as far as being able to supply enough sweet to the finish pans.

    The depth of my finish pan when under a full boil running 18% is a very angry animal. In the area over the transition the sweet is up almost over the dividers cascading down to the area by the flue stack at a depth that just washes over the tops of the flue. At times I can see the tops of the dividers steam dry in a micro second. I have never had what I would call the traditional boil in my flue pan. I have seen pans with a nice even level of sap boiling way all nice and even like a pond during a rain storm.

    I hesitate to change it because things work well now but maybe for fun I should run the pan with about 4" sap over the flues and see what happens.
    3X10 Lapiere Waterloo small/CDL raised flue with oil fired homemade steam hood
    1700 taps all on vacuum thru sap ladders
    Smoky Lake auto draw off
    Custom 2X4 finish pan by 3rdgen
    Kubota BX 2370 tractor and Polaris ATV
    CDL Airtech L63
    CDL remote vacuum system sensing.
    2 double Bernard releasers
    Westfab 7" short bank
    More dang tanks and pumps than I can remember
    Yellow dog made from parts named Roxy

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
    Posts
    769

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    On another site some of the people reduced the size of the opening between channels and reported much more even draws. The claim I think was that there was back mixing between the channels.
    Smoky Lake 2x6 dropflu pans and hoods on homemade arch
    Smoky Lake 6 gallon water jacked bottler
    Concentric Exhaust
    250 Deer Run RO
    325 taps

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Jacksonport Wisc
    Posts
    5,086

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    That can also be deceiving because you will get nice shinny bubbles in the last channel by the draw off. That is a clear indication that the syrup is getting very close to being over density. When you get the really high bubbly candy looking bubbles they build up and spill backwards making it look like the liquid is moving backwards. I think in reality the syrup below isn't its just the higher bubbles moving to a lower level/depth.
    3X10 Lapiere Waterloo small/CDL raised flue with oil fired homemade steam hood
    1700 taps all on vacuum thru sap ladders
    Smoky Lake auto draw off
    Custom 2X4 finish pan by 3rdgen
    Kubota BX 2370 tractor and Polaris ATV
    CDL Airtech L63
    CDL remote vacuum system sensing.
    2 double Bernard releasers
    Westfab 7" short bank
    More dang tanks and pumps than I can remember
    Yellow dog made from parts named Roxy

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