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Thread: Question about blower control.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Cloquet, mn
    Posts
    29

    Default Question about blower control.

    Where do you locate the control for your blower. I want to use a rheostat and locate it by the somewhere near the doors so it's simple to turn it off when I put wood in the stove. How do I get the wire from under the arch to the front of the stove? I'm open to all suggestions.
    Thanks,
    Ray

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Eden Prairie, MN
    Posts
    1,636

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    I've seen the placed all over. Some right by the door latch, which seems the best choice.

    I solved the problem differently. I put the blower in a box, which quiets things down as a bonus. There is only one way for air to get in the box and I put a flapper valve on there that the suction holds closed when I want to open the door for firing. The air starts and stops instantly with a twist of the wrist, rather than waiting for the blower to spot up and down.
    John
    2x8 Smokylake drop flue with AOF/ AUF
    180 taps on sacks
    75 on 3/16 tubing with shurflo
    Eden Prairie, Minnesota

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Esko,MN
    Posts
    290

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    I was planning on using a rheostat on my blower but ended up with an on/off switch near the door on a bracket that holds the switch and my draw off control unit. I've never needed to control the air flow rate for my AUF/AOF arch.
    Chad

    2014: 12 taps, 5 gal buckets
    2015: 15 taps on bags
    2016: 150 taps: 100 on bags, 50 on 3/16" natural vac, 2x8 AUF/AOF Homebuilt Arch, 2x8 SL Drop Flu & Auto Draw, SL Propane Canner/Bottler
    2017: 225 taps: Built Lean to, Added SL hood, preheater, concentric exhaust, SL SS 7" SB Filter Press
    2018: 180 taps: Added Shurflo to 50 - 3/16", Auto fill sensor to head tank
    2019: No tapping
    2020: 175 taps
    2021: 300 taps, homemade RO and releaser
    2022: 600+ taps

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Rock Creek, NC
    Posts
    5,807

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    I use a switch and a rheostat to control my blower. I set my blower speed where I want it and use the switch to turn it off and on. At full speed my stack turns blue and grows about 2". A stack thermometer will help you find the "sweet spot".
    Russ

    "Red Roof Maples" Where the term "boiling soda" was first introduced to the maple world!

    1930 Ford Model AA Doodlebug tractor
    A couple of Honda 4 wheelers
    Four chainsaws and no chickens!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Granville, PA
    Posts
    403

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    Russ, how do you determine the sweet spot? Is there a magical range of temperature that works for every evaporator or is it specific to each evaporator? And it is per evaporator, how do you determine what is best, is it all about evaporation rate or fuel consumption or do they go hand in hand?
    Matt,
    Minehart Gap Maple

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Rock Creek, NC
    Posts
    5,807

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by minehart gap View Post
    Russ, how do you determine the sweet spot? Is there a magical range of temperature that works for every evaporator or is it specific to each evaporator? And it is per evaporator, how do you determine what is best, is it all about evaporation rate or fuel consumption or do they go hand in hand?
    You want a stack temperature of 600 to 900 degrees. Lower than that and you're fire isn't hot enough meaning that you need more air. Higher than that and you're sending too much heat up the stack meaning that you are adding too much air.
    Russ

    "Red Roof Maples" Where the term "boiling soda" was first introduced to the maple world!

    1930 Ford Model AA Doodlebug tractor
    A couple of Honda 4 wheelers
    Four chainsaws and no chickens!

  7. #7
    Haynes Forest Products Guest

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    When I helped a few people put blowers on the first thing we did was fire up the rig and build the biggest hottest fire we could. With aid of the blower getting a good fire started was a snap and then we started playing with the boil. That is how we decided what was the sweet spot. We watched how big the boil was and how even it was in the pan. Steam was a consideration but was harder to read. I think boil rate was more important than fuel consumption. Once we came to what we thought was the best boil we looked at how fast we went thru the wood and firing rate.

    If you were put things in order I would think that
    1) Boil rate
    2) Ability to control the evaperator
    3) wood consumption

    Once you have the rig running like a top that steam is rolling out the roof and the syrup is coming out the draw off at a regular rate and your able to Replicate the settings every time you cook using stack temperature.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,566

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    Initially when I added my AOF/AUF, both on high pressure, I shut the blower off each time to fuel. Then once my grandson forgot to shut it off and I noticed that no smoke nor sparks came out the arch door. Since then I start the blower after about a minute after lighting a new fire and only shut it off as the hot coals are nearly gone at shut down.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

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