I have seen a filter press for sale with a thermometer installed in one of the frame plates and was thinking it might be a good idea. Has anyone done this modification or have a press with one installed?
I have seen a filter press for sale with a thermometer installed in one of the frame plates and was thinking it might be a good idea. Has anyone done this modification or have a press with one installed?
My press has steel plates and I would not be afraid to drill and tap them even if they were aluminum. Looking at my press this afternoon now I am thinking about installing a tee in the output of the press and putting the thermometer in that. That way I wont have to worry about damaging it when I take the plates apart for cleaning.
What is gained by a thermometer in your press?
William
950 taps
3 X 12 Thor pans on a Brian Arch
CDL 600 expandable
The first syrup thru the press cools down a bit. Right now we recirculate back into the finishing unit till the press is hot then go to my bottling unit. Even though it has a water jacket I still would like to know my syrup is at least 185 when it gets to the canner. Having a thermometer on the output will tell me that.
It just seems to make the most sense if you want to know the temperature of the syrup out of the filter, not in it. Just put it in the outlet hose. I think the best way for that would be a tee. Use it as an elbow with the other side having a threaded bushing to add the thermometer. Then as the syrup flows along the stem of the thermometer it will give you the temperature. This is the way I read the temperature from my pre-heater, it works well.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
John Allin
14x18 Hemlock Timber Frame Sugar House 2009
Leader 2x6 w/Patriot Raised Flue Pan 2009
Leader Steam Hood 2014 - Clear Filter Press 2015
Leader Revolution Pan and SS Pre-Heater 2016
CDL Hobby RO & Air Tech L25 Hi Vac Pump 2019
06' Gator HPX to collect wood & sap
14' Ski-Doo Tundra for winter work in the woods
Great Family 3 grown kids+spouses and 7 grand kids who like the woods
7th Gen Born in Canada - Raised in Chardon Ohio - Maple Capital of the World..<grin>.
On the outlet side of the press (right side in this photo), we have a tee with a thermometer inserted. We've also put in another tee with a small spigot and valve to take samples from or to fill containers directly off the press.
We charge the press by putting DE into the drawoff tank and circulating. We allow the "cake" to build up, and monitor the syrup temperature. Once it is above 180 deg F and running clear, we will send it to a barrel. As more syrup is drawn off we will add a "small" scoop of DE to the drawoff tank about every 5 minutes and match the speed of the diaphragm pump to the drawoff rate. We can get about 4-5 barrels of syrup through a press in this manner.
To help warm the press, we use an electric car-engine blanket to take the chill off. That'll heat to about 140 deg F. Gets the press up to temperature faster. There are drop down air lines and electric lines right above the filtering area so no connections to fumble with or stumble over. We also insulated our drawoff tank with spray foam (low expansion) to keep the syrup hotter.
When this press is full, we push it back and connect it's twin brother in place. We'll then connect the syrup inlet to the hot water line and pump water through to purge it, with the outlet line connected back to the sap tank. We really don't carry any liquid around (sap, water, concentrate, filter rinse water)....it's all pumped where it needs to go.
FilterPress2.jpg
Last edited by DrTimPerkins; 07-30-2018 at 10:50 AM.
Dr. Tim Perkins
UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
https://mapleresearch.org
Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu
I stand corrected. Dr Tim’s setup makes perfect sense. I had never considered that someone would go directly from press to barrel.
John Allin
14x18 Hemlock Timber Frame Sugar House 2009
Leader 2x6 w/Patriot Raised Flue Pan 2009
Leader Steam Hood 2014 - Clear Filter Press 2015
Leader Revolution Pan and SS Pre-Heater 2016
CDL Hobby RO & Air Tech L25 Hi Vac Pump 2019
06' Gator HPX to collect wood & sap
14' Ski-Doo Tundra for winter work in the woods
Great Family 3 grown kids+spouses and 7 grand kids who like the woods
7th Gen Born in Canada - Raised in Chardon Ohio - Maple Capital of the World..<grin>.
And to continue that, ...to barrel, to barrel, to barrel, to barrel with drum overflow valve setups (photo below). We typically set up for 4-5 barrels in a row (about what one press will do before we need to break it down) next to the filter press behind the evaporator. So we set it up once before we start the evaporator and know that once we start sending it to the drum we're good to filter 160-200 gal of syrup before touching it again. Gives you more time to focus on other things, and you only need to start paying much attention after the next to the last barrel is filled. This also serves to homogenize the density of the barrels as one filters off the evaporator/drawoff tank a bit, so small variations in density are less problematic and also helps to heat the syrup in a partially-filled barrel to above hot-pack temps.
drumtransfervalve.JPG
Dr. Tim Perkins
UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
https://mapleresearch.org
Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu