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Thread: Brazing cast iron

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Howell, mi
    Posts
    820

    Default Brazing cast iron

    Last Sunday the vac pump seized.
    Found I could turn it over easily by hand a few times and then it would bind.
    Seemed like something came loose or maybe a bit of crud rolling around inside was the cause so I had a minor rebuild kit and new bearings shipped overnight for delivery on Tues.

    Cracked the pump open Monday night after work and found the problem was much more serious. One of the pistons broke.

    Of course, this had to happen during the week we were doing a major software upgrade at work where both my presence and undivided attention were required for some very long hours.

    No luck so far finding a replacement piston, but haven’t exhausted every lead yet …still working on it.
    Probably no chance of getting a new piston prior to the season ending. Plan B would be to get another pump off e-bay for parts.

    With nothing to really lose, I figured I’d take a shot at trying to braze this thing back together.
    Never brazed anything before, but after watching a few videos and reading up on it, kind of reminds me of soldering, which I can do.
    No worse off if I fail.

    The pics show what I’m up against. The cylinder portion is 3/16 thick and the piston itself is ¾.
    Figure I’ll grind off a little from both the piston and the cylinder but leave enough original metal to register. Clamp it up and spend more time heating the piston because it’s thicker, then have at it. Let it cool naturally.

    Any words of wisdom before I fire up the torch?

    20180330_085701_resized.jpg
    20180330_085710_resized.jpg
    20180330_085726_resized.jpg
    42.67N 84.02W


    350 taps- 300 on vacuum, 50 buckets
    JD gator 625i Sap hauler w/65 gal tank
    Leader 2X6 drop flue

    Homemade auto draw-off
    Homemade preheater
    Homebrew RO, 2- xle-4040's
    LaPierre double vertical releaser
    Kinney KC-8 vacuum pump

    12X24 shack
    Lots of chickens and a few cats.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,583

    Default

    While I'm not a welder or do I have any experience brazing anything that had to be exact (and I don't play one on TV, but I think it is to stand a chance you need to pre-heat the pieces, braze it, then put it in a hot oven to let it cool very slowly. Then you may well need a machinist the bring it back to spec. if that can be determined.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Location
    illinois
    Posts
    132

    Default

    you really do need to preheat all the parts in the oven, the hotter the better. shoot for around 500 F. putting it in sand to cool slower would be good also

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Fond du Lac, Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,091

    Default

    You can spend the night at a Holiday Inn Express the night before.

  5. #5
    Haynes Forest Products Guest

    Default

    Now its still early and I haven't eaten yet so give a little leeway here but isn't that the cylinder??

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Howell, mi
    Posts
    820

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Haynes Forest Products View Post
    Now its still early and I haven't eaten yet so give a little leeway here but isn't that the cylinder??
    Nope, it’s actually kind of weird.
    Main shaft goes through the hole in the piston there.
    Attached to the main shaft is a cylinder which has its hole for the main shaft drilled off center.
    This cylinder acts as a cam and causes the piston to move up and down.
    I’ve attached the parts breakdown for better clarity.

    So here’s the story…
    I heated the whole piston up using MAP gas. When I thought I could just start to see a little color I switched to the torch and brought the repair area up to cherry red.
    Used lots of flux and got a nice puddle going and kept it going for the length of the repair. Did this on both sides, then just let it cool.
    Had what I thought was a pretty good bond. Couple of hours with a die grinder and a flat file and the piston ran free and easy.
    Reassembled the pump and tested. Everything looked good.

    Put it back in service and it ran beautifully…strong, smooth, quiet…for about an hour.
    Clink, clank, bang. So much for that. It was worth a shot.
    At least I got the main lines out in the woods cleared.

    Playing e-mail/phone tag with the regional rep for these pumps. Should be able to get something going come Monday.

    KC8 pump IPB.jpg
    42.67N 84.02W


    350 taps- 300 on vacuum, 50 buckets
    JD gator 625i Sap hauler w/65 gal tank
    Leader 2X6 drop flue

    Homemade auto draw-off
    Homemade preheater
    Homebrew RO, 2- xle-4040's
    LaPierre double vertical releaser
    Kinney KC-8 vacuum pump

    12X24 shack
    Lots of chickens and a few cats.

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