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Thread: Concrete vs dirt

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Catskill Mts, Ulster County NY
    Posts
    603

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    My floor is crushed stone, which shifts constantly when chopping wood and is impossible to clean because the wood chips mix in with the stone. But it can be hosed down and there is no mud. The evaporator sits on a concrete pad, which makes me wish I poured the entire floor every time I think about it. I may dig it out and if not pour a concrete floor, lay down some joists and 3/4 plywood.

    If you have the opportunity to start with a real floor, either wood framed or concrete, I would recommend that you do so.
    Gary / Zena Crossroads / 42˚ 00' 24" N / Hobby in Early '70s, Addiction since 2014

    175+ taps on 3/16 (60 of which are on two Lunchbox Vac/Releasers)
    12x34 timber framed sap house w/attached 10x34 shed roof for storage
    2 x 6 Smoky Lake hybrid pan on Corsair arch with AUF/steam hood/preheater/concentric exhaust
    7.0 KW Sun Power PV System, Smokey Lake Filter Press/Steam Bottler, Modified NGMP RO - 2 4x40 posts 200 gph

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    wilmot, nh
    Posts
    162

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    Quote Originally Posted by Russell Lampron View Post
    Besides the other things mentioned you will be able to keep your evaporator leveled on a concrete floor.
    i'll be honest, we solved that by using a 3x7 concrete pad under the 2x6 arch. has served us well since 1985 or so. dirt floor around the pad, with a wood floor to the side where the sap tank and wood bins are. don't need any floor drains. don't need to sweep the floor. finishing is done elsewhere ( small scale production, 17 gal/yr avg.).

    metal roof, shiplap siding, masonry stack of 25'.
    member, new hampshire timberland owners association

    2x6 g.h. grimm company lightning evaporator. made in rutland vt.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,547

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    When I built my sugarhouse I ran out of time. I then built a wooden floor (I have a sawmill) and I laid 8x8x16 concrete blocks to go under the firebox, under the rear legs and a hearth that stuck out about 30" in front. I covered that with 20 ga sheet metal to make sure sparks would not fall between the cracks and set the floor on fire. That worked but it was not good. I didn't get a floor poured until 3 years later. Much better for sure.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Hoosick Falls
    Posts
    2,000

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    For the first 6 years we were on dirt floor. The second sugar shack had 6 concrete columns in the ground 4' to level the rig. It was a temporary site so no concrete floor.

    Concrete is no doubt the best for cleanup, but we get a lot of condensation so the drain and a squeegee is a must.

    Local regs will be the determining factor in the end if you go commercial and not just family use for now.

    Let the budget decide when you pour.

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