+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Muriatic acid ratio to clean pans

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Hollidaysburg, PA
    Posts
    83

    Default Muriatic acid ratio to clean pans

    Hi I'm looking for the right ratio of muriatic acid to water ratio to clean my pan. I have tried fermenting sap and using vinegar which works "OK" but I used a dilution of muriatic acid a few years ago and that stuff was amazing I just can't remember what the ratio to water was. My pan is stainless Tig welded and after using the acid I dumped a bunch of baking soda in to neutralize the acid and rinsed it out really well. My pan is a 2x3 divided and I plan on putting about 15 gallons or so of diluted acid in.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Shelburne MA
    Posts
    107

    Default

    It's my understanding (based on wisdom garnered from these forums) that muratic acid is not the best choice for stainless. Someone chime in please if I'm wrong. Phosphoric acid is the better option. And from what I gather, it's readily available as a cleaner for dairy operations.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Hollidaysburg, PA
    Posts
    83

    Default

    The only reason I used muriatic acid is I came across a pan cleaning guide from Bascom's or one of those big outfits and it worked great but like I said I cant seem to find the paper I printed off a few years ago but yes I would be open to trying something else also. I was not overly impressed with vinegar , while it cleaned ok it did nothing for the scale deposits....

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Hollidaysburg, PA
    Posts
    83

    Default

    It was a very diluted ratio I want to say 50:1 or 100:1 but I can't remember

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Central Ohio
    Posts
    282

    Default

    In my experience, I would recommend against using muriatic acid. Several years ago I was desperate to find a way to clean the thick deposits off my pans. Nothing was working. So I tried muriatic acid. It seemed to work on the small deposits, but............in some spots it actually etched the stainless steel. That acid is really hard on stainless. Ask Dr. Tim.

    I finally settled on using standard pan acid (phosphoric) and a moderately aggressive scouring pad. Once you take the skin off the deposit, the acid seems to work better. My pans no longer have that mirror finish, but at least I got them clean.
    Central Ohio
    Leader WSE 2x6
    Old metal corn crib converted to "The Shack"
    Smoky Lake 6 gallon water jacket canner
    Daryl 5" filter press with air pump

    I don't like the trend:
    2017: 100 taps, buckets, 15 gallons syrup
    2016: 100 taps, buckets, 30 gallons syrup
    2015: 100 taps, buckets, 34 gallons syrup
    2014: 100 taps, buckets, 30 gallons syrup
    2013: 100 taps, buckets, 52 gallons syrup
    2012: 100 taps, buckets, 37 gallons syrup
    2011: 93 taps, buckets, 47 gallons syrup

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Ontario Canada
    Posts
    60

    Default

    When using Vinegar, I have found a noticeable difference by heating it just to the point we’re it steams a bit. Then let sit overnight. I agree heavy niter or worse a burn spot will require scrubbing.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Knapp, Wis
    Posts
    1,868

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by maple marc View Post
    It seemed to work on the small deposits, but............in some spots it actually etched the stainless steel. That acid is really hard on stainless. Ask Dr. Tim.
    Yes it will etch the stainless. Do you want it off or not? I just used some on Sunday for a stainless tank I bought that had HEAVY rust and iron deposits from hard water. Milk stone remover was not cutting it after 2 hours.
    Poured some in a spray bottle and did small patches at 100% rate with a stainless scouring pad. Need to be careful b/c of the fumes. A few times I overdid it and had to stick my head out of the tank, dangerous if you don't know what your doing. But it got it off. Yeh, their is some mild white streaks and discoloration, but don't want the sap dissolving that iron and then plugginf the membrane on RO. Who is going to see it anyway other than me?

    I used to use it on my pans but stopped, other less aggressive means to get them clean, but you need time as well. If time is of the essence, then you might have to break it out.

    I might also add, I have never used a scouring pad on my new pans. To me, the sand paper scratch look on them looks worse than muratic acid white streaks. I just use an old t shirt, milkstone acid and baking soda. A scouring pad scratches the stainless to the point where it will attract even more niter buildup.
    I
    Last edited by markcasper; 03-13-2018 at 01:58 PM.
    Mark

    Where we made syrup long before the trendies made it popular, now its just another commodity.

    John Deere 4000, 830, and 420 crawler
    1400 taps, 600 gph CDL RO, 4x12 wood-fired Leader, forced air and preheater. 400 gallon Sap-O-Matic vacuum gathering tank, PTO powered. 2500 gallon X truck tank, 17 bulk tanks.
    No cage tanks allowed on this farm!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Hollidaysburg, PA
    Posts
    83

    Default

    Will the home depot phosphoric acid cut it? They sell it in 32 oz bottles. Do you have to dilute it and if so by how much? I would buy regular maple pan cleaner but the nearest supplier is pushing 2 hours away from me.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Knapp, Wis
    Posts
    1,868

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by blaircountysugarin85 View Post
    Will the home depot phosphoric acid cut it? They sell it in 32 oz bottles. Do you have to dilute it and if so by how much? I would buy regular maple pan cleaner but the nearest supplier is pushing 2 hours away from me.
    my milkstone remover says 56.3% active ingredient (75% solution), the rest is water, dye, etc......I spray it on full strength, scrub with tshirt, the baking soda on that, scrub some more. For soaking, probably a gallon in a 4x4 front pan, let soak, if its not working, i put in another gallon. you could check what the ingredient % is for the home depot stuff, but probably not as strong.
    i did old sap soak last summer, worked wonderful except a few tough spots.
    Mark

    Where we made syrup long before the trendies made it popular, now its just another commodity.

    John Deere 4000, 830, and 420 crawler
    1400 taps, 600 gph CDL RO, 4x12 wood-fired Leader, forced air and preheater. 400 gallon Sap-O-Matic vacuum gathering tank, PTO powered. 2500 gallon X truck tank, 17 bulk tanks.
    No cage tanks allowed on this farm!

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts