Couple questions on shurflo pumps

[motowbrowne]

Well I’m not exactly sure where the pump is going sit on the property, but it’s ordered (4048) and I plan on using 3/16 line. Still not totally sure if I’ll run a mainline or a manifold either, but I’ve got time. Wanted to thank everybody for all the help so far, and I’m sure I’ll be posting more questions as I move through this process. I do have one question right now, is there a maximum number of taps Incan put on each line? Say for instance is an 800 ft line with 50 taps too much? Check that, I just reread grateful maples post saying he was tapping 80 taps on 800 ft of line, so 50 should be doable.

50 is too many. You can probably get away with it, but 25 each on two lines would be preferable. The length should be fine.

Best cheapest manifold I have found is a short piece of 1" pipe (I'm using blue mainline) and with a 1" barbed X 1/2 Female NPT elbow that you put a star fitting in. The syrup suppliers all have the star fittings. Easier than messing with saddles and cheaper than a manifold with brass fittings. They'll probably even cut you a 2' scrap of 1" mainline for a dollar or two.

[Cedar Eater]

A vacuum guage at the end of each line will tell you whether you have too many taps on the line, but that problem will only show up when the run is fierce. I had 45 taps on an 800' line and I think it would have been better to limit it to 25 or 30. But there's no real way to know that your lines are swamped other than to see zero vacuum at your far tree when you have no leaks and a high vacuum at your pump.

[Biz]

Great discussion on the Shurflo pumps! On the pump control side, my unit allows the pump to continue to run as long as sap is flowing (pump still pulling good vacuum), regardless or temperature. I do have a secondary temperature shutoff which I set to 28 degrees (adjustable), but as long as sap is running and the pump is pulling vacuum, it will continue to pump sap. I usually see the lines running down to 30 degrees or maybe lower, when buckets are already forming icicles. Once sap has stopped running, whether from cold temps or trees have just quit giving sap, the pump stops and purges sap out since it isn't doing anything useful other than depleting batteries. Flow via bypass valve is allowed after that. I don't have AC power available anywhere near my pumps. There are a lot of other ways to control the pump, even just manual operation, either way it's great that there is a low cost way to coax more sap from the trees!

Dave

[Gratefulmaple]

No my max is 30 on each run. They do well.

[SSS2017]

Well I’m not exactly sure where the pump is going sit on the property, but it’s ordered (4048) and I plan on using 3/16 line. Still not totally sure if I’ll run a mainline or a manifold either, but I’ve got time. Wanted to thank everybody for all the help so far, and I’m sure I’ll be posting more questions as I move through this process. I do have one question right now, is there a maximum number of taps Incan put on each line? Say for instance is an 800 ft line with 50 taps too much? Check that, I just reread grateful maples post saying he was tapping 80 taps on 800 ft of line, so 50 should be doable.

When I researched for mine I found you should have no more than 20-25 per line on 3/16. That’s why I ran 2 lines. Right now I have 22 on my 1000’ line and 19 on my 750’ line.

The weather has been great the last two days here with freezing temps at night. Saturday into Sunday I got 40 gallons of sap in 23 hours. Sunday into Monday I got 50 gallons in 26 hours! All crystal clear like water!

[lyford]

Ok, sounds like I’ll be limiting my lines to 25 taps. Do need to purchase one of those tubing tools or can I get away with using the hot water method. Those tools aren’t cheap and after buying a pan the year before last and building my shack this past summer I’d like to keep my maple expenditures to what is only absolutely necessary this year.

[psparr]

Ok, sounds like I’ll be limiting my lines to 25 taps. Do need to purchase one of those tubing tools or can I get away with using the hot water method. Those tools aren’t cheap and after buying a pan the year before last and building my shack this past summer I’d like to keep my maple expenditures to what is only absolutely necessary this year.

I took is not necessary but it makes life much easier. If you decide on a tool, I make them for $160 shipped.

[motowbrowne]

Ok, sounds like I’ll be limiting my lines to 25 taps. Do need to purchase one of those tubing tools or can I get away with using the hot water method. Those tools aren’t cheap and after buying a pan the year before last and building my shack this past summer I’d like to keep my maple expenditures to what is only absolutely necessary this year.

Pat makes a great tool. I use the one I got from him every day to fix squirrel chews (shot 6 yesterday, but there's still a lot out there). The nice thing about the two handed tool is that you can string your line up tight and then come back and install the drop lines without taking the line down. Otherwise you've got to string up the line, mark where each drop line is gonna go, then take the tension off the line and lay it on the ground to install the drops. Also, for making repairs the tool really makes life easier. You could get by with a couple of pieces of plywood with slots cut in them for the tubing and string to tension them, but I'd highly recommend the tool. Not cheap exactly, but worth it.

[SSS2017]

I took is not necessary but it makes life much easier. If you decide on a tool, I make them for $160 shipped.

I bought one off Pat as well. I think it’s a must for 3/16. I bought the 5/16 tool from him so I can use it for my drops also. All you do then for the 3/16 is this
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LwzTFFfQsVs

[SSS2017]

Pat makes a great tool. I use the one I got from him every day to fix squirrel chews (shot 6 yesterday, but there's still a lot out there). The nice thing about the two handed tool is that you can string your line up tight and then come back and install the drop lines without taking the line down. Otherwise you've got to string up the line, mark where each drop line is gonna go, then take the tension off the line and lay it on the ground to install the drops. Also, for making repairs the tool really makes life easier. You could get by with a couple of pieces of plywood with slots cut in them for the tubing and string to tension them, but I'd highly recommend the tool. Not cheap exactly, but worth it.

Especially for repairs! If you have a leak you find at a T for instance, and you’re strung tree to tree like me, the tool is a must!