Dr. Tim Perkins
UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
https://mapleresearch.org
Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu
Yes, but that will only affect taps on that one mainline. In the wet/dry conductor system, a leak on a saddle will block the flow from ALL mainlines on that system. Since saddles are often the "weakest link" in the system, it is best to avoid putting them in the wet/dry conductor system.
Dr. Tim Perkins
UVM Proctor Maple Research Ctr
http://www.uvm.edu/~pmrc
https://mapleresearch.org
Timothy.Perkins@uvm.edu
I don't put any saddles on wet/dry conductors for the reasons already stated. I run an additional mainline parallel to the wet/dry lines to pick up taps along the way. Like shown in the photo. I have seen people just T the wet/dry lines and add a star fitting to connect laterals.
TypicalWhip+LateralMain.jpg
About 750 taps on High Vac.
2.5 x 8 Intens-O-Fire
Airtech 3 hp LR Pump
Springtech Elite 500 RO
14 x 24 Timber Frame SugarHouse
16 x 22 Sap Shed w/ 1500 gal. + 700 gal. tanks
www.littlehogbackfarm.com
What if you were to make a small booster out of 1” pvc and connect the lateral to that? Just a thought
09 3' x 10' Dominion & Grimm Oil fired
Dominion & Grimm 1000gph high brix RO
40' x 30' Sugar House
Around 3,500 taps always adding more
I have a number of saddles on my wet line. Never caused any problems for me in the 5 or 6 years I've had this system. In terms of addressing the concerns above... I have about 2000' of wet/dry. If the wet line is iced up, sap goes through the dry. This has never happened to me caused by a leak, just by ice in the tubing in the AM. But if I did ice up the wet, I have no doubt the sap would move up to the dry, giving me an extra indication that something is wrong. If I have a leak I go find it pronto... and a leak straight into the wet line would be obvious from the pressure drop at the releaser. If you don't have the ability to stay on top of your vacuum leaks, then I can see where it makes more sense to go the extra mile to avoid problems. For me, working with 800+ taps total and maybe 60 straight into the wet line, I'm confident that tapping those trees has gained me way more than it has lost. On the flip side, much of what I did was due to naivety, not necessity.
The other way you could consider doing it is to run your lateral to the wet/dry, then run it along the wet/dry until you come to the next main, putting a saddle on the main. Is running 50' of extra lateral more feasible for you than putting in a short main? How far would you go to reach the next main?
Steven Abbott
Over 900 taps on vacuum
30" x 10' D&G Woodsaver evaporator with Steamaway
Half acre market garden
2 farmers in training
Never do it unless you're able to find any potential leak within minutes of the leak occuring (because that is how long it will take for a leak at the wet line to screw up your entire system). Leaky lateral from squirrel chew, leaky tap hole, etc., will freeze saddle and thus freeze mainline. If you put saddle directly onto wet line, the wet line will freeze. Sap will back up the wet line and be forced to travel through the dry line. This is a huge problem from a yield standpoint. If you have a traditional setup where your mainline Ts into a wet/dry (as seen in this picture) then sap completely fills your mainline and pulls up the whip into the dry line. https://www.google.com/search?q=main...zeDFqs-TrmQpM:
If your mainline is FULL of sap at any point that means vacuum is greatly reduced to all of the laterals on that mainline. Vacuum travels poorly through liquid. So one frozen saddle on a wet line will comprimise all of the mainlines above it, which makes no sense and is a huge financial drag. I guess if you feel like you really need to get those extra few taps then I would put a saddle on the dry line. But I would never do it and I know many people in my area who install thousands of taps per year, they never do it.
Pretty amazing the things you learn from spending lots of time each year looking for leaks, you'll find many crazy things that result from small leaks especially. Leaks are the greatest enemy but we cannot always find every leak so the best we can do when installing tubing is to design resilient systems that will still function well even when some leaks are present.
Maybe run a 3/16 line with all those taps that you want to pick up down to your next mainline, similar to what abbott suggested. 3/16 could give you a little extra natural vacuum.
Last edited by WestfordSugarworks; 03-21-2018 at 05:24 PM.