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Thread: Making drops

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    Somewhere between Poultney and Bellows Falls
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    Default Making drops

    This weekend I headed into an area we have about 400 taps, all on good slope. Last year I just started converting to 3/16" on it, but only got as far as about 80 of the taps. The wind destroyed a bunch of my 5/16" and lots of it left standing is ready to be rebuilt anyway.

    So Friday night I'm going to sit down with a tasty beverage and start making some drops to use Saturday morning. I've read this board inside out, and still can't wrap my head around something....

    What is the optimal setup on a 3/16 lateral run, regarding taps and drops?

    5/16 drops, with no CV?
    3/16 drops WITH CV?
    A combination?

    I started using 3/16 2 years ago, with 3/16 drops, and no CV. I was blown away to see my vacuum gauge pegged. It actually worked. However, year 2 showed me a pretty solid drop in production on that same line. Yes, I used the same taps, same drops, and didn't change a thing. I guess I had a hard time acknowledging how big of a difference new equipment can make.

    So as I plop down at the table Friday night, what should I be building for drops? Is there an optimal setup, or is this something still being decided?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Bristol, VT
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    1,978

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    Hey Pete. My preference is to use 3/16 x 5/16 T's (5/16 for drop line) as this provides more flexibility with what spout you can use. I hear that more spouts are being made available for 3/16, including CVs, but I'm not certain of that. I use a smart spout when the drop is new and a CV2 the second season. I have not been using drops for more than 2 seasons with 3/16 as the risk of them plugging seems pretty high, even with rinsing the tubing at the end of season.

    I'm not sure there is an optimal set up as new fittings and spouts for 3/16 seem to be popping up every year.
    About 750 taps on High Vac.
    2.5 x 8 Intens-O-Fire
    Airtech 3 hp LR Pump
    Springtech Elite 500 RO
    14 x 24 Timber Frame SugarHouse
    16 x 22 Sap Shed w/ 1500 gal. + 700 gal. tanks
    www.littlehogbackfarm.com

  3. #3
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    Default

    So you like the 5/16" drops on a 3/16 lateral, mainly for the availability of tap selection?
    Then in year 2, you use the same drops, but change to a CV tap to try and keep the tap running longer?

    Whats a smart spout? I'm not a newbie, but I can't remember all the names of these things.

    I did pick up some 3/16" CV's, so I know those are available. Those are what I planned on using, but I keep reading about how effective 5/16 drops are, for fighting infection from backflow.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Wisconsin, Spring Valley
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    We use 5/16 drops,new taps every year.The first year we averaged 24 gals of sap per tap,second year we averaged 22 gals per tap.The first year we collected sap for 30 days of the season,second year 23 days.

    Sap Hauler
    -1996 Ford F250
    -2003 Yamaha Grizzly 660
    2016 Year:About 925 Taps on 3/16
    2015 Year:About 775 Taps
    2014 Year:About 270 Taps
    2013 Year:About 265 Taps
    2012 Year:About 200 Taps
    2011 Year:About 200 Taps
    2010 Year:About 65 Taps

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody View Post
    We use 5/16 drops,new taps every year.The first year we averaged 24 gals of sap per tap,second year we averaged 22 gals per tap.The first year we collected sap for 30 days of the season,second year 23 days.
    Solid data Cody. I'm a data nerd myself, and seeing non-anecdotal notes is awesome.

    What taps did you put on your 5/15 drops?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Wisconsin, Spring Valley
    Posts
    185

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    H2o seasonal clear spout

    Sap Hauler
    -1996 Ford F250
    -2003 Yamaha Grizzly 660
    2016 Year:About 925 Taps on 3/16
    2015 Year:About 775 Taps
    2014 Year:About 270 Taps
    2013 Year:About 265 Taps
    2012 Year:About 200 Taps
    2011 Year:About 200 Taps
    2010 Year:About 65 Taps

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Raymond, NH
    Posts
    347

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    From what I have read here, it seems like the way to go is to use 5/16 drops. They are less likely to allow sap to back up into the tap hole. Also, check valves are important, especially if the tubing is not in it's first year. Leader has CV2's that have a 3/16 barb now. I just put some on some trees I tapped that had 1 year old 3/16 drops. I did not want to change out the drops since they were only 1 year old. But next year, everything is gonna be converted to 5/16 drops and CV2's.
    More taps than the year before. Bigger shack than the year before. Leader Patriot 2x6 w/hood. 3-post Dolly, but still too much sap and not enough wood or time.
    www.wickedsappy.com

  8. #8
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    Apr 2015
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    So maybe the way to go is with 5/16 drops and regular taps for the virgin year, then snip them off and go with CV on year 2?

    Bottom line being - you like the 5/16 drop lines better right?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Raymond, NH
    Posts
    347

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    Yeah, exactly. I wold recommend just going with 5/16 drops from the start. There are T's available that have (2)3/16 barbs and then a 5/16 barb for the drop. Nice any easy.

    When I started with 3/16 there were very limited fittings, so I had 5/16 drops (not knowing that was better anyway). Then, once 3/16 taps came into play I started going with 3/16 drops (no need for a 5/16 to 3/16 straight connector, the only option at the time). So my woods are currently a mess of many different styles of drops. But by next season I will have it all converted over to 5/16 drops. From the info that I have just recently read up on, it's the way to go. It'll also simplify what I need to keep at the ready for fittings & spouts.
    More taps than the year before. Bigger shack than the year before. Leader Patriot 2x6 w/hood. 3-post Dolly, but still too much sap and not enough wood or time.
    www.wickedsappy.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueberryHill View Post
    Yeah, exactly. I wold recommend just going with 5/16 drops from the start. There are T's available that have (2)3/16 barbs and then a 5/16 barb for the drop. Nice any easy.

    When I started with 3/16 there were very limited fittings, so I had 5/16 drops (not knowing that was better anyway). Then, once 3/16 taps came into play I started going with 3/16 drops (no need for a 5/16 to 3/16 straight connector, the only option at the time). So my woods are currently a mess of many different styles of drops. But by next season I will have it all converted over to 5/16 drops. From the info that I have just recently read up on, it's the way to go. It'll also simplify what I need to keep at the ready for fittings & spouts.
    Will you use the spout extenders, or go directly into the tree?
    Since you're going to change your taps every year, you won't use CV's right? The benefits of the 5/16 drop negate the need for CV's, especially when you change every year?

    CV's shouldn't be used multiple years anyway, right?

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