Be careful with ball valves unless you have heat tape on them. A ball valve will burst and leak if closed with sap or water in the ball. I have of sorts, a manifold system, all using ball valves, but my supply hose is 1.5" from my sap tanks, then once it gets to the end near the manifold, it reduces to 1". The other sides are all 1". Mine has sources from the group of 3 sap tanks all into that 1.5" main hose, the permeate tank, a recirculate line from the head tank and a drain. If I ever forget to drain the line, I get a frozen valve which makes it necessary to replace it. However, I generally close the valves at the other end of each line, then drain the hoses, then I close the valves as they manifold and finally I re-open the source valves that are ball valves. (the sap tank valves are all butterfly valves, as well as the permeate tank valve, but the recirculate valve is a ball valve and that gets opened after draining so the ball is empty of sap (or concentrate in this case). Twice now, over the last 5 seasons, I've had to replace a ball valve due to bursting, when it froze and the forecast didn't forecast a freeze.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.