So why not boil/clean/sterilize adapters and reuse them?

[Moser's Maple]

Here's another good read.
https://blogs.cornell.edu/cornellmap...t-2cp3xos.docx

Just on another note, many times when trying to sanitize cv's the ball inside us either stuck or falls out.

[DrTimPerkins]

Okay, okay, I get it....Don't try to clean adapters....It can't be done.

So if this bacteria is so tenacious that it can't be killed with boiling water, one has to assume its still present in our finished syrup product.....

Since you still seem to be skeptical (although others have generously offered reasonable answers to your questions), I'll try to give a bit more in depth answer.

Many types of microbes we deal with in the maple world are not simple, single organisms that live alone. They tend to clump into clusters of organisms, and in doing so, form microfilms, which are exudations of saccharides and other gel-like substances that form a semi-solid matrix in which the microbes are protected and can proliferate. Getting these biofilms off the surface of materials is extremely difficult, and generally requires scrubbing or sonication AND chemical sanitizers. Good cleaning in most cases requires two steps, dislodging particles of "dirt" and sanitizing. Boiling, and even chemical cleaning alone, will kill many, if not most (or in some cases, all) of the microbes. Even when it does kill all of them, unless dislodged somehow, the biofilm itself remains. This is basically a house where a once a few microbes get back in, they will proliferate rapidly. So unless you both kill the microbes, and remove the biofilms, recolonization with microbes will be fairly quick. With something like a spout, if you scrub it out, you're likely to make small scratches in the surface of the plastic, which provide nice spots for microbes to "grab" onto and begin the colonization process. With a device like the CV, any imperfections in the ball itself due to these films could make the ball seat improperly, thus rendering it ineffective.

[Woodsrover]

Thanks, Dr. Perkins and I appreciate the reply as well as all the great help and information you provide for all on this forum.

My last post was more tongue-in-cheek than anything and I understand what everyone is saying and the reasons for replacing these adapters. That said, my wife is a PhD. and a Professor of Biology and I ran this question by her yesterday. She couldn't see any reason why these things couldn't be cleaned well enough and reused, but obviously she (and me too!) doesn't have the experience and research on just this question that you do so of course I'll take your advice. (But the cheap New Englander in me has a hard time throwing them out after just one use!)

Thanks again for all you do!

[johnpma]

So does this mean that everyone should be replacing their tubing with new tubing each season? I just want to understand the replacing a new spout into multi season used tubing???

On another note what do people use to clean their holding tanks/totes that are plastic?

[lewichuk19]

I'm curious how the tree is able to out pull the vac that is being created in a 3/16 system and suck the sap back. In theory the vac in 3/16 never shuts off once it starts unless it freezes. Or do I have that wrong??

[Super Sapper]

You want to keep the microbes from coming in contact with the exposed surface of the tree where you drilled the hole. You will not keep all the microbes out of the sap as there are too many places for them to colonize. The sap coming out of the tree has no microbes in it but once contaminated from contact with the taps or tubing you do not want that sap coming into contact with the tree.

[tbear]

Since you still seem to be skeptical (although others have generously offered reasonable answers to your questions), I'll try to give a bit more in depth answer.

Many types of microbes we deal with in the maple world are not simple, single organisms that live alone. They tend to clump into clusters of organisms, and in doing so, form microfilms, which are exudations of saccharides and other gel-like substances that form a semi-solid matrix in which the microbes are protected and can proliferate. Getting these biofilms off the surface of materials is extremely difficult, and generally requires scrubbing or sonication AND chemical sanitizers. Good cleaning in most cases requires two steps, dislodging particles of "dirt" and sanitizing. Boiling, and even chemical cleaning alone, will kill many, if not most (or in some cases, all) of the microbes. Even when it does kill all of them, unless dislodged somehow, the biofilm itself remains. This is basically a house where a once a few microbes get back in, they will proliferate rapidly. So unless you both kill the microbes, and remove the biofilms, recolonization with microbes will be fairly quick. With something like a spout, if you scrub it out, you're likely to make small scratches in the surface of the plastic, which provide nice spots for microbes to "grab" onto and begin the colonization process. With a device like the CV, any imperfections in the ball itself due to these films could make the ball seat improperly, thus rendering it ineffective.

Or, carefully scrub the "footprint". Thanks Dr.Tim! I looked for the original discussion with no luck and I appreciate you taking the time to rewrite the explanation. Ted

[DrTimPerkins]

(But the cheap New Englander in me has a hard time throwing them out after just one use!)

You are welcome to reuse them if you wish, but you simply will not get the same yield. You might get reasonably close though, and if your time is not worth anything, then cleaning might be a possibility if you are willing to accept reduced yield. If you're going to try it, I would use a mild-Clorox solution and some type of agitation (ultrasonic if possible), followed by a thorough 3X rinsing in very clean water, followed by very good drying and storage in clean plastic (only when completely dry). Even then, you will likely experience somewhat reduced yield for the reasons given earlier. You are not the first to try.

[maple flats]

The worst place to harbor those microbes is the tap, thus change every year, second worst is thew drop, thus replace it every 2-3 seasons. The lateral line does not seem to be the issue a drop is, that should be good for the life of the tubing.
When the sap is flowing the tree can't pull any sap back, on 3/16, until lines begin to freeze. At that time, the tree still has vacuum in the tree and some sap from the line that is still liquid having just left the tree that takes far longer to freeze can and does flow back into the tap hole.
Because of these facts, I use new taps every year and replace the drops every 2-3 years.
To be the absolute safest and thus get the maximum flow from a tap, the drop would be replaced every year, however studies have shown that the cost to replace every year costs more than the loss of sap from not changing. That relationship shifts at 2-3 years.

[DrTimPerkins]

I'm curious how the tree is able to out pull the vac that is being created in a 3/16 system and suck the sap back. In theory the vac in 3/16 never shuts off once it starts unless it freezes. Or do I have that wrong??

Unless you have a leak somewhere on the line. After a period of time on vacuum, vacuum is transferred into the vessels of the wood in the tree. So let's say you have 29" Hg vacuum in the line, and get a squirrel chew about 10' down the line or a fitting pops off somewhere. Under those conditions, the driving force of the vacuum is lost at that point in the line, and the vacuum in the line at that point is 0" Hg. You still have 29" Hg of vacuum IN THE TREE. Which way do you think sap will run? Hint....it isn't down. Nope...it'll run right back into the taphole, where the wood fibers around the inner part of taphole form a nice filter for all the microbes coming back from the tubing, leaving a nice coating of microbes all around the inner surface of the taphole. The tree senses these microbes, and to stave off infection, starts the wound-response process of closing off (walling off) the taphole, which happens far more quickly than most people think....a matter of weeks it becomes noticeable if carefully measured. Unfortunately, the reality is that due to the diameter of the tubing, sap in a 3/16" tubing system will run back WAY further than in a 5/16" system...on the order of tens of feet rather than a few feet. What is more common on 5/16" systems is pulses of backflow (on the order of inches) due to the introduction of air when a mechanical releaser dumps. You can see this happening at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__9xGeunEK8 An electric releaser avoids this (mostly), but is still susceptible to leak-induced backflow.