My shack
Hey Everyone! If we run the stack pipe up through the cupola, and out the cupola roof, are we asking for any problems? I have a 2x4 evaporator, no steam hood, and the cupola will be 4x8. Oversized perhaps but who knows what the "future" holds. My wife certainly doesn't! Thanks, Ted
4x8 cupola is certainly enough, but without a hood you could be getting fly ash and other nasties from the stack falling back into the pans. Not the best plan.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
Okay. I really don't want to come off as argumentative because I did ask the question, and I am here to learn. That being said, I have been boiling outside, on a block arch with a straight stack. It seems that there will be less potential for ash and soforth from the stack ending up in the pan with the new plan. Am I missing something? Thanks, Ted
I think he may have misunderstood. You did mean to vent the stack *above* the cupola roof, right. I think he thought you mean to vent the stack in to the cupola.
If you mean to vent above, you should be fine (barring clearance issues with the stack).
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Correct. Above the cupola roof. We're thinking about going with brick on the wall behind the stack and double wall insulated stack for "inside" the cupola. Would that alleviate any clearance issues?
While not standard, I guess it would be better than what you had. However, you do get some "stuff" out the stack and it is very likely some could find it's way down into the syrup, even though it would vent thru the cupola roof. That being said, it would certainly be far less than when you boiled outdoors. However, don't you want to make the best possible syrup and not just a little better than before?
For clearance issues, the rule of thumb is to have 36" away from any combustible. That can be reduced in several ways. Brick is one, another is a class A solid fuel chimney and other ways are to add spaced layers of tin, spaced out 1" on non combustible spacers, for each such layer you cut the space in half, thus 1 layer gets to 18", 2 layers each spaced 1" from the previous, gets 9" and a 3rd layer will get 4.5". Another way, and it happens to be how I did it (but it is certainly not the only way) is that I bought some 2" thick ceramic blanket and made my own class A stack. I wrapped it around the stack, then I covered that with a SS outer cover, so on mine the stack is 12", then 2" of ceramic blanket (2300 F degree version) then a 16" SS outer cover. Then that is kept 3" the nearest combustible. 2 should work, 3 is safer.
Yes, there are other safe ways, just remember, the conventional rule of thumb for chimney clearance is for a wood stove that is burned much differently than an evaporator arch. Then they are designed to protect against the eventual chimney fire. In an evaporator you will never get a chimney fire unless you are in the habit of choking off the air to slow the fire. An evaporator is burned as fast and hard as you can, that does not create creosote, it is created when the stack (or chimney) is not kept hot enough.
Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.
Thanks maple flats, I really appreciate your clarification and input. You guys/gals on the Trader are the BEST! Ted
I ran an 8" stack through my cupola last year. Photos below show stack inside shack and roof jack on cupola roof:
new stack inside.jpg new roof chimney.jpg
I have a 2X4 evaporator also. Shiny section of stack closest to the roof is double wall stainless steel stove pipe.
I also put some metal on the wood closest to the stove pipe after this photo was taken. Haven't had any problems.
Mark
Mason 2x4 w/raised flue pan, 240 gal. sap tank, 80 Reds on 5/16 tubing and Lunchbox releaser/pump, 20 sugars on buckets
Just keep an eye on your double wall insulated stuff. As a ff, I saw an instance where the insulation had collapsed inside the double wall causing the insulating properties to fail. I think the pipe was faulty from the start, but never hurts to be aware of the possibilities.
2017- Started small-made 7 gallons. Long days & few nights on a 1x2 and turkey fryer.
2018- Bought a 2x4 and built a small scale RO. 21 gallons.
2019- moved up to 100 gph procon for my home built RO. Built a steamhood. About 220 taps and 21 gallons again.
2020- 140 procon on the R0. Added a new mainline at my in laws. 330 taps for 24 gallons, sold excess sap.
The shed is coming along nicely, just a few more details to work out. When it's done I'll work towards posting a pic because I think it's going to be SWEET! For now, brother asked if louvers ( that could be opened and closed) could be installed on the cupola instead of the standard doors. I told him,"Sure! Im not sure it'd work, but we could install them." So, what do YOU think? Would louvers work? Thanks, Ted
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