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Thread: thinking oil?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Oneida NY
    Posts
    11,577

    Default thinking oil?

    I have a Grimm Arch with raised flue pans. I'm beginning to consider changing to oil for next year. What has to be done to convert a wood fired arch to oil? Can a plate just be attached to the front after removing the doors with the oil gun attached? Does the an extension need to be added to get the gun out farther so the heat can be gotten under the first part of the syrup pan? For an 3x8 what oil gun is needed and how big should the nozzle be? What type of nozzle?
    Any info appreciated.
    If I go with it, I also want an insulated cover to help block out some of the noise, Ideas please.
    Dave Klish, I recently ordered a 2x6 wood fired evaporator from A&A Sheet Metal which I will be converting to oil fired
    Now have solar, 2x6 finish pan, 5 bank 7x7 filter press, large water jacketed bottler, and tankless water heater.
    Recently bought another Gingerich RO, this one was a 125, but a second membrane was added thus is a 250, like I had.
    After running a 2x3, a 2x6, 3x8 tapping from 79 taps up to 1320 all woodfired, now I'm going to a 2x6 oil fired and a 200-425 taps.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Sunapee, NH
    Posts
    330

    Default

    Dave. Sounds like you're searching for ways to really cut down on sugarhouse time. What's up? Is it starting to wear you down?
    Leader 3x8 Patriot raised flue
    800 taps on vacuum
    100 buckets around the yard
    A lot of help to make it fun

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    South Colton, NY
    Posts
    642

    Default

    I can't answer your questions but I don't think you'll regret the switch. Also have you considered selling the arch and starting fresh? That may not be an option,but if it is its a good one.
    3,100 taps
    60 cfm flood
    HC2
    5 by 14 oil

    Brian

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Middlebury Center, PA
    Posts
    1,391

    Default

    It can be done I've heard of some guys doing it. A hood to quiet it down is a must mine very loud with the hood off. Plus as you said extending the front would probably help get the fire where you want it. I think I leader has some PDFs that have been shared on here before about recommendations for oil fired arches.
    Might be worth checking out this link.
    http://www.sugaringequipment.elapier...ts_en.asp?no=2
    Jared

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Barnet, VT
    Posts
    2,580

    Default

    Here is Leader's info.
    https://www.leaderevaporator.com/pdf...d-oil-arch.pdf

    Nice chart on sizes.
    I would call these starting points. I built my own oil arch. I had to try different nozzles/ pressures to get front pan to boil all the way to the front. Ended up with 80H nozzles. It works but still does not boil the way I want. I think I am going to move the burner underneath the back pan to reverse fire it. I have a 701 on my 3x12. With 2-6 gph nozzles. Pressure about 125. Stack temp 670. You should also realize that nozzles are gph rated at 100 psi. So if your burner does not have a gauge on it you do not know how much oil you are burning. I have a plastic barrel over my burner to lower noise. Make sure to leave enough space around an enclosure for combustion air. I did not at first and stack temp would drop with cover on burner.
    William
    950 taps
    3 X 12 Thor pans on a Brian Arch
    CDL 600 expandable

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Barnet, VT
    Posts
    2,580

    Default

    William
    950 taps
    3 X 12 Thor pans on a Brian Arch
    CDL 600 expandable

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