Pan Keeps Scorching

[DrTimPerkins]

I do not ever use a scoop when I'm boiling or anything.
I always just let it boil and draw off.

Same here. A scoop is to hang on the wall as a nice decoration or if you want some syrup for your donut. The sap/sweet will move naturally as you boil. Moving it around will just disrupt the natural process of gradient formation. You simply need to add sap at the inlet, and take syrup off at the outlet, and the gradient will form. The gradient formation is much more of a "leave it alone" thing than an active thing you need to do. About the only other action you might want to do would be to start drawing off early (slowly) to draw the sweet around a little in order to avoid overshooting syrup.

It sounds to me like either your pan was not dead-level, the previous scorches have made high/low spots in the pan which will tend to scorch easier, or the scratches are causing niter to build up rapidly in that area. The solution is to either 1) level the pan, 2) run the pan very deep or 3) switch sides or stop and clean more frequently. If those don't work, then option 4) replace the pan. It is also possible that you have naturally hot and cold spots in the pan (pan edges are typically a bit colder than the middle), but since you've had the pans for a while, you're probably well aware of that nature if your pans were that way. If I were you, I'd try doing #1, 2, and 3 above (all at the same time), and if it scorches again, go to #4.

[RileySugarbush]

We don't excessively "scoop", but do find it handy to have one. Mostly when we reverse flow mid boil. We take several scoops from near the old draw and put it in the new. Helps avoid the third channel syrup event.

Plus showing the aproning to guests is educational and entertaining.

[DrTimPerkins]

Mostly when we reverse flow mid boil. We take several scoops from near the old draw and put it in the new.

Ah....I see. We do essentially the same when switching sides by drawing off a bucket of syrup and pouring it into the new draw-off floatbox.

[RileySugarbush]

Another handy use of our scoop: checking for niter by tapping on the bottom... "Tink , tink" sound = no problem. "Thud, thud" = time to reverse.

[Springfield Acer]

So, does reversing just buy you more time or does it actually remove niter?
Yes, my pan boils hardest in #2 & #3 since the pan bears on the side wall covering a good 1" all along.
I too transfer some syrup but usually after a down period where all of the chambers have equalized. Then, once I get a boils started, I draw off a couple quarts from #4 and put it in #2 & #3. This is to avoid weak material in the draw off box and to keep for betting two plus chambers that all need to draw off at once.
Thanks for the help.

[Sunday Rock Maple]

Removes, reversing is in the owners manual from Leader for our pans and given the heat pattern from our guns we will sometimes get syrup in the third tray before the flow that Dr Tim talked about is established. We do start the draw early to compensate, but we also check that tray with a scoop when it gets close. I should also confess that I sometimes fish with worms (horrors) not very cool but simple and effective.......

[Sugarmaker]

Not knowing your setup I can't be specific, but in general you probably need both more depth and better flow (scoop towards the draw off and check for aproning more often).

Brian,
3000+ taps and you know what aproning is too. Not many folks left! Thanks. You comments were right on the money.
Regards,
Chris

[Springfield Acer]

OK, so how deep on average should the syrup be in the front pan (assuming a flat bottom)?

[mellondome]

It all depends on your comfort level. I prefer to only have syrup in the draw off box!
With a 2 by x i would think most run between 3/4" and 1". Only reason to run deeper is if you have a high spot in your pan or if you are new to an evaporator and learning the work flow.

[Springfield Acer]

Sounds like I'm OK. I probably run 3/4 at the float box and one inch in the deepest warp.