Auber auto draw off

[Bricklayer]

The capacitor close valve FAILED after 3 draws. Nothing catastrophic like emptying my pan or anything like that. It plugged up and would not close all the way. So I left it the way it was stuck open and just used my throttle valve to draw off.
So for all the people that said to get a power open/ power close valve. You were right. I can say I tried.
I ordered a new actuator for the valve and it's a direct replacement. 3 wire power open/close. I will have it by Monday. Hopefully get to try it out this year.
Other then my poor decision on the valve the auto draw works great. I love having the temp in real time. Makes a huge difference. And the alarm works great too. When my valve failed I set the alarm to go off at 219.7 my drawoff temp for the day and when it went off I would open the throttle valve. Kind of defeats the purpose of an auto draw but it sure does help.

[Fznyupr]

I also have 12v Auber PID and Probe in my Auto draw off setup with a 3 wire power open/close valve and it has been working well this 1st season. I did ordered two PID units one for syrup and one for stack temp. One of the PID's had a bad J2 relay but I was promptly taken care of, great customer service.

[stoweski]

I built my own auto drawoff using a thread that was posted on the trader a couple of years ago (sorry, can't think of who posted the info). At the time Aubers didn't have the kit - that came out about 6 months later - but using his instructions and wiring diagram I was able to build it for around $275 with the valve and stainless fittings.

After using it for 3+ seasons I can say im very happy with it. It's worked great. Only issue I had was this January I went to set things up and found the valve didn't work. I disassembled it and found a dead bee stuck in it. I must not have completely cleaned it out and the bee found the sugar. After a good cleaning and reassembly it works as good as new.

[Ghs57]

The capacitor close valve FAILED after 3 draws. Nothing catastrophic like emptying my pan or anything like that. It plugged up and would not close all the way. So I left it the way it was stuck open and just used my throttle valve to draw off.
So for all the people that said to get a power open/ power close valve. You were right. I can say I tried.
I ordered a new actuator for the valve and it's a direct replacement. 3 wire power open/close. I will have it by Monday. Hopefully get to try it out this year.
Other then my poor decision on the valve the auto draw works great. I love having the temp in real time. Makes a huge difference. And the alarm works great too. When my valve failed I set the alarm to go off at 219.7 my drawoff temp for the day and when it went off I would open the throttle valve. Kind of defeats the purpose of an auto draw but it sure does help.

Bricklayer, which replacement valve did buy? I'm thinking about this kit, and might as well consider the power open/close valve too. I would also like to add a stack temp readout.

[Bricklayer]

Ehcotech valve 1" NC Stainless. Not sure of the product number because I just ordered a replacement 3 wire actuator. I should have the valve Monday so I will try it and post my results.

[Bricklayer]

Installed a new 3 wire power open/ power close/ valve actuator on my 1" valve. Used it for 3 boils and it worked amazing. Not one issue. I made sure I didn't take it off in between boils to clean it out to really put it to the test. It passed with flying colours. And I did notice also that it has capacitors in case there is a power failure. If it loses all power it returns to the closed position. You can tell by the sound when it loses power and closes with the capacitors. All in all I'm very happy with the autodraw and new valve.

[BAP]

Did you have to make any changes in the control box to go to a power open/ power close valve? Or was it all set for that.

[Bricklayer]

I originally thought i was going to have to rewire the controls but it was very simple. The valve as long as its a NC valve requires switched power to open it only and a constant power to close it. The valve has a limit switch in it to know if it's open or close. So long story short all that I'd needed from the control box is a constant hot wire to valve. I used the original panel mount 120v 3a outlet provided with the kit and ran my switched power and constant hot to the 2 main prongs and used the ground prong as the neutral. Very illegal but it worked and got me through this year. I'm gonna install a panel mount 3 pin DIN connector similar to the RTD probe connector this off season to make it more legal and safer.

[kitkat]

I also put together a kit from Auberins. Went ok but Iam not the sharpest knife in the drawer when it comes to electrical,
especially when things dont work the way you think that they should. I want to send out a special THANK YOU to BRICKLAYER for all of
his help. This guy knows his stuff ! It is working good now, but I also am going the change out the plug where the constant hot wire is hooked up for the power valve. Thanks again.
Oh yeah, the power valve came from Ehcotech. Esa Harvela ( the owner) also was very helpful in ordering the correct valve.
The people at Auberins were also very helpful, great customer service.