100 GPH RO Build for $2,000 - Pics, Video, Diagrams... Oh My!

[Bricklayer]

Tried to pm you but your mailbox was full.
Double check you amp rating on your controller. The way you want it to run is that to start it back up you need to press the momentary switch. What I did to make sure it worked was run the RO normal then remove the power source I was going to run through the controller. Quickly put it back on to make sure system wouldn't start back up. You can simulate this with a regular switch for testing purposes to make it a bit safer. Once you find the right interrupt point install your controller.
I tested mine by setting shut off to 90 F and turning system on and putting probe in hot water. Pull it out right away to make sure system dosnt start right away. I think theses controllers have built in time delays to protect the controller relay and the device they are switching. Not sure if you can set that in the settings or not

[WoodButcher]

Sounds good. I designed my RO wiring diagram in the second post above so that it will not come back on unless pressure are between 30psi and 250psi. i have shut the unit off in the middle of a test and it would be impossible for it to come back on seeing how the pressure drops to zero in no time at all. Ill play around with it and see what i can figure out. I can always tie it into the purple NC wire above which would cut off the pumps but not the momentary switch.

[Bricklayer]

I found a compression fitting yesterday for the probe. It's 3/16 compression fitting. Hard to find in a store. Not common. One I found was 3/16 compression to 1/8 npt.

[WoodButcher]

Hey everyone,

This is just a thought, but I was thinking of using a 5 micron pleated prefilter instead of the typical melted polypropylene. My theory is the grooved/pleated material can be washed with hot water after each boil and you can reuse them. This is the same style as my hot tub filters which see some nasty stuff and get rinsed by this creative 'comb' rinser i use (see below). The flow would be better too, although 15GPM with the current ploy will suffice.

In an ideal world i would put 2 prefilters if i had the room: pleated and then poly. One suggestion: maybe take the outlet of the well pump, swing it to the back of the dolly, and mount 2 of them on either side of the main center frame in the back.

Let me know what you think!

pleated filters:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0110LTRU6...I2PNDJ9KSBIHT1

comb cleaning tool
https://www.amazon.com/Mi-Way-Aquaco...ds=filter+comb

[jmayerl]

You won't want to reuse any filters as they get loaded with bacteria so quickly. Some stuff you just can't wash off and is well worth the $3 it costs for a new filter every day.

[WoodButcher]

You won't want to reuse any filters as they get loaded with bacteria so quickly. Some stuff you just can't wash off and is well worth the $3 it costs for a new filter every day.

Thanks. i was thinking that might be the case...

[Bricklayer]

Is a new filter used for a rinse\wash also or is the days filter just left in?

[Urban Sugarmaker]

Is a new filter used for a rinse\wash also or is the days filter just left in?

I think the best practice is to use a new filter for each run of sap. Then use a separate filter that can be used multiple times for washing only. That's what I did it worked fine. I would think a sap filter would start stinking after a day due to rapid bacterial growth feeding on residual sugar trapped in the filter.

[jmayerl]

I have separate soap and acid filters that I reuse for multiple cycles

[wiam]

I concentrate, wash, put in new filter and rinse. Then it is ready for next day.