Smoke Stack and stack cover questions

[Snowmad]

I'm building a new sugar house and I just set my evaporator up inside. It's a sick feeling to cut a hole in the nice new tin roof to run the smoke stack. It's a lot sicker when I see it's almost $500 for a roof jack from Leader for a 10" stainless. Would it be a sin, or a crime against humanity if I came off my base stack, went up 3', and ran the pipe out through the wall and then up? I'd have no leaks that way through the roof, except for my fan that will be on top of my steam hood. My evaporator is a Leader Patriot 2x6. I did that last year with my old evaporator and it seemed to work OK, but will I get enough draft? Is there a cheaper alternative if I do run it up through the roof? My carpenter that's helping me build it says they make a heat resistant orange colored rubber "boot" that you can run a pipe up through and they run in the $100 price range. I'd also like thoughts on a stack cover. I don't know if the CDL one will line up with my style pipe, but I like the looks of how they are made and it would give me a little extra height on my pipe. The goal is for the pipe to be at least as high as your roof line, correct? Thanks for any advise!!

[wiam]

Straight is best. When I had 10" pipe I bought a galvanized jack from a local plumbing/heater wholesaler. If you get one for 8" double wall it will work. There are less expensive maple suppliers than Leader.

On the heat resistant rubber. Might work for a wood stove or an oil arch. When I burned wood my stack could get to 1400 degrees.

[mspina14]

I just cut a new hole in my sugar house metal roof for a new evaporator smoke stack. So I know that sick feeling...

My rig is smaller than yours. I have an 8" stack. It is single wall off the evaporator, and I used a double wall SS pipe through the roof. The roof jack is galvanized and the chimney stack is SS.

I think it cost me about $250.

Photos attached.


Mark

new roof chimney 2.jpgnew mason evaporator.jpgnew roof chimney.jpgnew stack inside.jpg

[bstewar]

I just installed my stack in my new Sugarhouse and the install was very similar to Mark's except I did not go through the cupola. The chimney flashing was ordered from Menards I think or some other online farm/hardware retailer. My roof flashing for a 10" pipe was about $60. I had a storm collar already.

Suggest keeping the stack straight with no bends.

I purchased my flip cover from northwoods stainless in Maine. Similar price to bascom's for a 10".

[MISugarDaddy]

Menard's carries a galvanized roof flashing that is designed for 8" double-wall stack that fits a 10" single-wall nicely, like wiam stated. The roof flashing and storm collar sell for $36.99 and $8.99 respectively. If you are interested in them, Menard's sku for them are 6371704 and 6371801, respectively.
Gary

[wiam]

Menard's carries a galvanized roof flashing that is designed for 8" double-wall stack that fits a 10" single-wall nicely, like wiam stated. The roof flashing and storm collar sell for $36.99 and $8.99 respectively. If you are interested in them, Menard's sku for them are 6371704 and 6371801, respectively.
Gary

Check your roof pitch. They fit a range. But there are 2 different ones. The first one I picked up was for a flatter roof so I had to return it and get a steeper one.

[Snowmad]

My pitch is 5/12 so I think the one Gary showed should work. I'm not sure if I need double wall through the roof or not. I'm concerned when I hear about those 1400 degree stack temps, but 10' up is should be cooler, right? My rafters are 3' on center and my roof purloins that I'll be going through are about 2' apart. With a 10" hole for the pipe, that gives me approximately 14" from the purloin to the pipe. I don't want to burn down my building, but if I don't have to spend a small fortune on double wall 10" pipe that would be fine by me as well. Will I be OK with regular 10" pipe? Then I could use the Menards roof jack. This is the one I found. https://www.ventingpipe.com/metalbes...-roof/p1069713
I don't know if it's better or just more expensive.
Where did you get your roof jack and pipe, Mark?
Thanks for the input everyone!

[n8hutch]

If you are concerned with the temperature of the stack you can wrap it with ceramic blanket where it goes through the roof.

[wiam]

My pitch is 5/12 so I think the one Gary showed should work. I'm not sure if I need double wall through the roof or not. I'm concerned when I hear about those 1400 degree stack temps, but 10' up is should be cooler, right? My rafters are 3' on center and my roof purloins that I'll be going through are about 2' apart. With a 10" hole for the pipe, that gives me approximately 14" from the purloin to the pipe. I don't want to burn down my building, but if I don't have to spend a small fortune on double wall 10" pipe that would be fine by me as well. Will I be OK with regular 10" pipe? Then I could use the Menards roof jack. This is the one I found. https://www.ventingpipe.com/metalbes...-roof/p1069713
I don't know if it's better or just more expensive.
Where did you get your roof jack and pipe, Mark?
Thanks for the input everyone!

My rafters are 24". With 24" purlins. I took out one purlin. And had no problems with single wall pipe.

[RileySugarbush]

My pitch is 5/12 so I think the one Gary showed should work. I'm not sure if I need double wall through the roof or not. I'm concerned when I hear about those 1400 degree stack temps, but 10' up is should be cooler, right? My rafters are 3' on center and my roof purloins that I'll be going through are about 2' apart. With a 10" hole for the pipe, that gives me approximately 14" from the purloin to the pipe. I don't want to burn down my building, but if I don't have to spend a small fortune on double wall 10" pipe that would be fine by me as well. Will I be OK with regular 10" pipe? Then I could use the Menards roof jack. This is the one I found. https://www.ventingpipe.com/metalbes...-roof/p1069713
I don't know if it's better or just more expensive.
Where did you get your roof jack and pipe, Mark?
Thanks for the input everyone!

Have a 5/12 roof on my sugarhouse with rafters at 24" OC and 1x8 pine under asphalt shingles. Not ideal, but it's what I have now. My previous 8" stack ran through a 20" square hole with aluminum flashing loosely dropped in as a heat shield and a Menards galvanized roof jack. No problem with the wood for 10 years. It looked kind of crappy, so with my new Smokylake and a 10" stack, I bought two galvanized roof jacks ( for 8" double wall) , one set in from above and pointing down to act as a heat shield and the other pointing up normally on top. The edges of the planking are not touching the conical surface of the downward pointing jack and at that point the jack surface is a couple inches froth stack wall. Both jacks are vented so the temp inside will not build too much. I plan on putting a strip of flashing inside the jacks where they join as an additional heat shield but it probably isn't needed. Cheap, looks clean and should work at least as well as my previous setup.