Auto draw valve

[lpakiz]

Mellondome,
Yes, Jim started with a power open, capacitor closed valve. When he switched to a power AND capacitor closed valve, he had to upgrade the wiring in the controller from 2 wires to 3.
Not absolutely positive, but he might be willing to upgrade your unit. Call him after you're done with it this season.

[Bricklayer]

I've got an 1 1/4" draw off port. I was planning on going with a 1 1/4" throttle valve then a T then down to 3/4" then elbow pointing down then electric ball valve. Same thing on other side of T with a manual ball valve.

I'm still trying to figure out what the best way to do this setup is. I have an 1 1/4" draw of port on my evaporator. I would like to get it down to 3/4". Going down to 1/2" seems like nitre would build up a little faster. Where is the best spot to reduce it to 3/4". In my opinion the reducing should come on the downslope, keep the tee off the evap 1 1/4" then 1 1/4 street 90 then reducing bushing to 3/4" then nipple then ball valve. Only problem with that many 1 1/4" fittings is it weighs like 10 lbs. might be an issue

[Bricklayer]

Just wondering if I will have an issue going from 1 1/4" down to 3/4". Will reducing that much cause nitre to build up in the reducer? Or should I just reduce it to 1" and use 1" for everything?

[Haynes Forest Products]

Bricklayer I would avoid Horizontal plumbing that reduces down to much. I had niter flake/scale jam up against the reducer slowing the flow to the point of disaster. I went to draw off and it wasn't coming out. Things started to get crazy with the syrup getting crazy thick and large bubbles forming and the syrup wont come out. Thank god I fire with oil so a flip of a switch and I could clean it out.

[Bricklayer]

I ended up reducing from 1 1/4" to 1" and that's it. 1 1/4" throttle valve 1 1/4" - 1" reducer. 1" sanitary union, 1" tee, 2 1" street 90 then mech valve and on other side of tee a 1" ball valve. Same setup as the kit smoky lake sells.